I'm ready to use a few bags of ready mix to top a small section of sidewalk 2 inches thick. I've heard that a little white glue will help it stick. I have some TiteBond II reaching the end of it's shelf life can I use this? Or is it a waste of time. Being Sunday I have no access to any hardware stores in my area so I have to do this with materials on hand.
Thanks for any quick responses. I'm going to build the form right now.
Thanks.
There is a latex adhesive to help with the bond, HD has it. I would not try to save a few dollars to avoid using the proper adhesive. Also, make certain that the old surface is CLEAN of debris and WET THE OLD SURFACE DOWN with water so that it does not prematurely wick the water out of new uncured cement.
if you dont have time to go down to the hardware store to get the proper stuff, or wait until you can, when are you gonna find time to tear up this hack job and fix it?
if the auto store is closed do you tape a pie pan on the axle to fix a flat too?
randy
Considering a 6x5 garbage can storage unit is going on top of this I doubt I'll be tearing it up. I simple asked if glue would help the new crete stick. It's not essential. Thanks for the useless advice.
If it isn't a troll, I see many people who want to take the easy way out, or a shortcut method. They ask the newsgroup readers to get their approval for the shortcut method of doing a job. This way when it fails, they can blame the newsgroup and say ".....they said it would work" or "....this is the way they said to do it", "its their fault not mine".
Sometimes it works out that the newsgroup readers tell a person the correct way to do it and warn him that his way will fail, as happened here.
Sure it will not hurt to put the stuff down. Shelf life is usually under listed anyway.
Rough up the concrete before you put the steel. I think rebar is a bit over kill for a 2 inch slab, steel mesh or wire screen would have been my choice.
Have fun
The rebar is to support the 'wings'. It will just lie on top of the sidewalk. This is actually a 6x5 slab across the sidewalk. So there are 4-5 inch thick sections 5' x1.5' on each side of the sidewalk. The 2in topcoat is because that's the maximum height I can go above the sidewalk.
So it's a 6x5 slab with an existing 3'x5' 8 inch thick section of sidewalk under the middle. A water tight garbage can storge unit will go over this.
Sun, Jul 11, 2004, 4:01pm (EDT+4) snipped-for-privacy@address.invalid claims: I'm ready to use a few bags of ready mix to top a small section of sidewalk 2 inches thick. I've heard that a little white glue will help it stick. I have some TiteBond II reaching the end of it's shelf life can I use this? Or is it a waste of time. Being Sunday I have no access to any hardware stores in my area so I have to do this with materials on hand. Thanks for any quick responses. I'm going to build the form right now.
Gods above, me and the Woodworking Gods all agree, Al Whashisname's internet is the best entertainment ever.
We're not totally clear on what you're planning to do, you seem to have left out a detail or two. No matter. We'll give an opinion anyway. LMAO
You want to do this OVER a sidewalk? A public sidewalk, or private? If it's a public sidewalk, I would imagine the city would have some say in the matter.
Well, it's Sunday here too. We do have a hardware store in town (small farm town), but I'm not sure if it's open on Sunday mornings or not - been a lonnng time since I've been into town on a Sunday morning. LOL However. There is ALWAYS a however. There is a Wal-Mart about 3 miles away, and that's open on Sunday. A garden shop even closer, that's probably open on Sunday. You never did say just what supplies you loacked. Anyway, each would have wire mesh - somehow rebar cam into the discussion, and yes, wire mesh would work better, as you were advised. You should do a bit of research on ferroconcret. Fascinating. Anyway, within about 10 miles of me are also two more Wal-Marts, two K-Marts, two Target Stores, three Lowes, and one Home Depot, that I'm aware of, all open on Sunday.
I've never heard of putting any adhesive down for concrete work. Interesting. I've been considering dong something similar to what you want to do, for my conrete porch, but not quite as thick. But, I'd figured on a muratic acid wash, to etch it (and rinsed off, carefully, after), then a few bags of a mix made especially for that purpose. After careful consideration, I think I'll stick to that plan. LOL
Like I said, I'm not really sure of what you're planning on doing. Me, I'd figure a 2" slab probably wouldn't be sliding around, even without the glue, and would probably just pour it. Probably use some mesh in it, especially if it's gonna get a lot of foot traffic. Even chicken wire will work - like I said, check out ferrocement, or ferroconcrete - they've even made boats with 1/4" thick hulls - mostly experimental tho, 1/2", and up, is better. I take it there won't be any vehicles driving on it?
Making a success of the job at hand is the best step toward the kind you want.
- Bernard M. Baruch More likely, your boss gets a raise and/or promotion, from getting credit for your work.
- JOAT
give incomplete information, get a useless answer.
at least the garbage is right next to the place youll be ripping out this hack job so you wont have to carry it far...
randy
Actually you don't have a clue. All hat no cattle.
I just talked to the guy who poured my 24x36 shop pad last year, he owns 3 redimix plants and has been in the business since he was 12 and he would do exactly what I'm doing. Wire mesh is useless, top coat is useless for my application. Considering the sidewalk surface is completely worn away acid is a waste of money. He would lay rebar and pour the pad on a damp sidewalk. Glue is optional. Consdering I'm 60 miles from the closest hardware store or even a source of washed gravel bagged redimix is perfect.
So f*ck you shit for brains!
On Sun, 11 Jul 2004 11:38:26 -0700, "SQLit" vaguely proposed a theory ......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
Serious question. Where was rebar mentioned? I must have missed a message somehow.
enjoy your new sandbox.
randy
On Sun, 11 Jul 2004 10:01:12 -0600, snipped-for-privacy@address.invalid wrote (in article ):
I don't know about the glue, but a common "trick" is to dust the slab with some latex modified thinset (HD versabond).
-Bruce
I would not use a wood glue like Titebond. At best it would do nothing. At worst, it would prevent the concrete from sticking.
When I repaired my concrete patio, I used a special adhesive intended for concrete. It was inexpensive and was sold at the local home center near where they keep concrete patch.
I am a firm believer in using the right tool (or in this case, adhesive) for the job.
I'd say you're partly right.
if this was a job for hire, or something that was going to be inspected, or something built to any kind of specifications, I'd say go with new concrete bonder from the contractor's supply store (or whatever the plans specify).
the OP wasn't doing a job like that. he was laying a light duty slab over some old, worn concrete and happened to have a jug of titebond around. the rough concrete he's going over will provide pretty good tooth to begin with.
now, having used bunches of adhesives in the white glue/concrete bonder/yellow glue class, it's obvious that they are all variations on the PVA chemistry. I suspect that latex paint isn't too far different either. my understanding is that the main differences between white and yellow glues is yellow glue has less open time and more cured water resistance than white glue. concrete bonder seems more like white glue, although in some brands there is an extra smell I can't identify. it's a relatively cheap product and not marketed for the crafts market, so the smell may just be something that was removed from the higher priced white glue to make it palatable for the housewife/ kindergarten market. the smell may OTOH be something needed for concrete bonder to perform well as concrete bonder. I don't know.
just guessing, I'd say that the OP's yellow glue will do just fine as bonder for his application.
You had to wonder?
Not sure why so much discussion. The stuff to use is called concrete glue. Its purpose in life is to add a bit of bonding strength between old concrete and fresh pour. I've used a brand called Pakmix, IIRC. mahalo, jo4hn
It seems that some of the know-it-all types who really don't know much have to act like idiots when you don't take their advice. My question was simple enough. Would throwing in some old Titebond help or hurt. I already knew from experience that plain old white glue is a pretty good bonding agent but I wasn't sure about TiteBond. Well the job is done and I got rid of some 18 month old TiteBond at the same time. Checked this morning and the bond is still holding. Now to build the bear proof unit for the garbage cans.
I would like to thank all the guys who actually responded to my question.
(snip)
And oddly enough, some of us who have seen how you respond to people who spent time trying to give you advice, won't bother to spend any time answering you in the future. Just because you don't like the answer, doesn't mean you have to call them idiots - keep it up and you'll find yourself talking, but nobody listening.
Mon, Jul 12, 2004, 3:28pm (EDT+4) snipped-for-privacy@address.invalid who now tells us: Now to build the bear proof unit for the garbage cans.
Bearproof? Did I miss the part about Yogi and Boo Boo? Has the Ranger been notified? Or were they just not important enough to mention? Anything else not mentioned? Grendle maybe?
Making a success of the job at hand is the best step toward the kind you want.
- Bernard M. Baruch More likely, your boss gets a raise and/or promotion, from getting credit for your work.
- JOAT
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