Nebie needs veneering advice

[Todd L]

Greetings, I need to glue raw veneer sheets 18" x 36" onto 3/4 MDF. I've never done this before and want to know which is the best method. I've read everything from using contact cement (think I want to avoid this one) to PVA and light wood glue. Do I lay the veneer down and roll it out from the center with a roller or what? I'm thinking once I get it glued down flat, I can lay another piece of MDF on it and stack a lot of weight on it, since I have no type of press. Will this work?

Thanks in advance

Todd L

[Tom]

Todd wrote:>Greetings, I need to glue raw veneer sheets 18" x 36" onto 3/4 MDF. I've

With no press, you could go with wood glue, cauls and some clamps. But the contact cement won't need any clamping. Just a good rolling-out after careful adhering. There's a neat trick to avoiding the air pockets that might occur. Wanna learn it? Why avoid Contact cement? Fire hazard? Odor? There's a low VOC water-based adhesive out there, if that helps. Tom Someday, it'll all be over....

[Todd L]

Pardon my ignorance, but what's a caul?

Todd L

[Todd L]

Oh, I forgot, what's the 'trick' to avoid air pockets?

Todd L

[Norm Dresner]

One answer to that question [there is more than one] is wax paper -- put it between the verneer and the underlayment and only withdraw it slowly a section at a time as you roll it out from the center.

Norm

[Mike G]

Don't forget to veneer the bottom side also.

[Tom]

A caul is a piece of scrap, slightly bowed/crooked to allow the center to press first upon the workpiece, then as you tighten the clamps, the outer edges press down. Too much pressure will bow it the other way, and then you'll get voids. Tom Someday, it'll all be over....

[mttt]

Even on 3/4" MDF???

[ I made this mistake on 1/8" Baltic Birch substrate and posted the message "Why did my veneer panels bow?". But I was thinking that you wouldn't really need a backer once the substrate is thick enough. Was thinking 1/2" MDF and up would be thick enough to avoid a veneer backing... ]

[Todd L]

I read somewhere you should veneer the back also, but it ain't gonna happen, at least not with this veneer. Check out this wild veneer, ebay item

3808987329. It looks even better in person.

Todd L

[Mike G]

It depends on the surface area of course but with enough veneer is still wood and wood will move no matter what you do. It's either going to flex the MDF or hurt itself trying.

[Mike G]

Note; The unseen veneer need not be of the same quality or price of your face veneer.

[Todd L]

I have another question if you please. I built a frame for a cabinet door out of curly maple that came out very slightly warped after unclamping. It is square, just a little twisted. I did not clamp the boards down, as I now know I should have. I learn as I go. When layed on a falt surface, one end sticks up about 1/4". Will gluing in 3/4 MDF into a rabbet cut on the back and pressured in so it seats good into the rabbet keep this frame straight? Or do I need to build it over. All my other frames came out good except for the one.

TIA,

Todd L

[Frank McVey]

Hard to say, Todd. If the panel is thick enough and the frame thin enough, you might get away with it. It's never worked for me and on the odd occasion when I have cocked up, I've had to re-do the door.

You might try just lightly pinning the panel into the rebate and see how it goes. Don't drive the pins fully home, so you can pull them out again easily.

Cheers,

Frank

[Todd L]

Thanks Frank, good advice that I'll try. Hate to glue it in and not have it turn out.

Todd L

[Mike G]

Maybe yes, maybe no. Depends on wood thickness, size, etc.

Of course, if you just set the frame down on something flat and leave it there you've got little better then a fifty fifty chance it could straighten itself out.