As previous posted I'm in the process of building my daughter a mission sofa
table. To start, mortise & tenons look a lot easier when Norm does it.
Anyway the side rails use through mortises, #1 mistake I used the
measurement from the plans to mark the legs and rails with a pencil (bad
idea) the up and down part of the mortises are longer then the tennon. After
glueup I made little patches to stick in the lower part of the mortise. # 2
this follows Norms advice of measure twice cut ones. I glued up one table
end two legs upper and lower short rails and vertical slats, so far so good.
went to glue up the other table end and checked to see where the long (front
back rails) mortise was (their offset mortises) and after the glue setup and
took the clamps off I realized that the offset is to the outside on one
table end and to the inside to the other table end. At this point I said a
few bad words as I was kicking myself. What I did to fix it was to cut the
tenon off one end of the rails and make new ones on the oposite side. During
a trial assembly it didn't look to bad and was less then a 1/16 off from
outside of legs to rails. # 3 I blew I think was $59. on the woodcraft
tenoning jig and after using it for
several of the tenons it worked ok I guess but kinda tedious. When I had to
recut the tenons today I already had the stacked dado set in the tablesaw
and just used it with a sacrificial fence and for me it did a much faster
and better job of the tenons then the jig. (won't tell swmbo that).
Well enough rambling, hope everyone had a great weekend.
I find the dado better in many cases also. I bought the jig before I had
the dado and it did do a very good job. For a guide, I clamp a 1" piece to
the fence just ahead of the blade.
OTOH, if you get into angled tenons, the fixture is going to work better
than the dado.
Even better is to not measure it, then you can't get it wrong !
I blast my mortices through with whatever size hole the chisel makes.
Then I set the bandsaw fence up to cut tenons to match the hole. They
plug straight in.
I have a vague idea what size they are. But I don't waste time
measuring this stuff, and it just doesn't matter if my morticer fence
is a bit off (this is a hard adjustment to get accurate on my setup).
Measuring is for repeat work (and yes, I can drone one for hours about
the work of Bramah, Whitworth, Colt and Cadillac). If you really are
just making a one-off, then "standardisation" isn't a meaningful
concept. Chase the thing that matters - fitting the two parts
together _to_each_other_, not trying to match each of them to soem
I suppose that is one of the advantages of a biesmeyer fence , I made a sled
that rides on the top of the fence with a piece of wood attached to the
side. then clamp the piece that you want to cut tenon on to it . set the
fence and slide the sled through ,flip the workpiece and do the other
then set the blade height, and using the mitre gauge cut the scrap off using
a block against the set fence to ensure the correct cutoff length .Do not
use the fence directly, else the cutoff will jam between the blade and fence
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