The one that has been carefully and skillfully adjusted.
I don't mean to sound condescending but you can't trust any manufacturer's
factory settings. Every power tool needs to be checked for accuracy. Most
of them (at least the contractor- and cabinet-grade machines) will make the
kinds of cuts you describe after being carefully set up.
I have a remanufactured Delta power miter box I spent three days adjusting
(without the aid of a dial indicator). It now cuts virtually perfectly.
You must stay away from the sliding compound miter saws. Many here
will claim they're accurate but this is pure fantasy and I advise to
do the test yourself. Pull them all the way to their full extension
and move them sideways. You'll see as much 1/8" of play sometimes on
some models (DeWalt, Makita, the Hitachi isn't that better either,
Now factor in the vibrations when cutting through hard wood like
maple... The saw will vibrate enough to trow off any carefull miter
You're best bet is to pick a high end model with solid construction
and of the non-sliding type.
Otherwise, the ideal tool for that is a table saw with a home made
On Wed, 24 Nov 2004 16:54:51 -0500, "Frosty Thunder"
What he said!
I have a(n) SCMS and usually use it only for rough cutting to length
and putting an angle on trim to be coped. If the cut really counts,
the saw needs to be locked into a non-sliding mode.
If the cut really, really counts, and/or it's wider than the
non-sliding setup allows, the TS and sled are the shizzle. Table saws
typically have less runout and better blades, as well. Stock miter
saw blades aren't usually good enough for fine work. They're fine for
framing or deck building.
For trim, a Lion trimmer can't be beat. Don't forget to cope when
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.