A newbie question for sure. I've built my shooting board,
and am trying it out with my bailey style planes. I'm not
getting the results that I want even though I've sharpened
the blades SS.
I've read about miter planes, and using low angle planes for
this, but am left with one question: How important is it to
narrow down the mouth opening when shooting end grain? I'd
think it wouldn't be as important as when planing long
grain. Is the large mouth opening on the Bailey's going to
limit their usefulness for shooting along with all other
It's not critical, but I still like to be able to close down the
mouth for shooting. If you have old Stanley/Baileys, you should be able
to adjust the frog and/or put a thicker aftermarket iron in the plane to
close the mouth up. (I substitute Hocks for most of my older Stanleys,
and I've got a Samurai laminated iron in one.)
Personally, I always use a low-angle plane for shooting, and have
excellent results. The low-angle plus the solid bedding add up to good
endgrain work. Also, FWIW, even on endgrain you need to be aware of
grain direction. You'll find that there is a "good" and "bad"
So when you say that you aren't getting the results you want, is it
just the surface isn't smooth, or is the plane chattering, or is it
Chattering. I haven't spent the time I need to on this
yet. But I think I probably just need to take in the size
of bite. Which brings us to the annoying slop in the
adjustment screw. It seems that you have to screw it half
the length of the bolt when changing direction.
That's the most likely culprit. To work endgrain well you have to
take a pretty light cut. Otherwise, your plane is likely to "hop and
skip" (or chatter) across the wood as the iron engages and releases.
Ah yes ... backlash, the bane of all old Stanleys. I think you're
pretty well stuck with that problem unless you buy a L-N or LV. They
have managed to reduce the amount of backlash in their planes.
Having mentioned that, another potential problem comes to mind.
Have you been making sure to finish all adjustments with the knob going
forward? If not, it could be that the slop is causing the blade to give
as you are trying to take a shaving. That could make for some
Or how about a woody? I prefer the idea of a quick tap or
two with a hammer to fiddling around with a knob. (Am I
starting to show my neander tendencies?)
So, who's figured out how to make a low-angle woody?
Yes. I have made a point of making sure the knob is tight
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