lighten gel stain

[Leon]

Well Java should be almost black. And I have had no luck at all with General Finish Java Gel coming out any where near dark.

[Swingman]

This was done with GF's(?) "Java" ... I know it was "Java', but not sure about GF's?

Got it a Rockler in any event, circa 2011, so it likely is.

Actually like what it did to this prototype chair, made of poplar first, before using QSWO for the real chairs.

Been hard for me to stain poplar this satisfactorily for my taste any other way, IME.

Before:

After:

[Leon]

IIRC our kitchen cabinets are Java I was trying to match that on our pantry, and it came out lighter than your chair. I ended up using "Dark Brown" dye to get the dark.

My biggest problem is that the lap marks "removed" darkness, not get darker. Even the guys at Woodcraft were scratching their heads on that one. They credited me for the unused portion towards the dye.

[Swingman]

Exactly the experience I mentioned earlier above when attempting to touch up/repair previously gel stained components.

Makes perfect sense when you consider that the solvent in the new stain acts to loosen/dissolve the existing binder from the binder/pigment mixture that was previously applied.

[Leon]

Yes it does make sense, BUT Bartely gel stains never did this. The biggest issue is when I do a face frame and go in one direction and end up at the starting point. When the fresh stain meets the portion I stained 5 minutes prior the stain comes off and is lighter.

This was not an issue with Bartleys and IIRC Lawrence McFadden gel stains. Once stained, it was there to stay. I will be anxious, I think, to see how Old Masters gel stains work, so far I have only use the gel varnish.

Additionally this was not an issue with GF gel Candle Light or Georgian Cherry gel stain. I have only had this issue with the Java color.

Now this is really hard to consider. With Bartely's you wiped the stain on and immediately wiped off. If you happened to leave or miss a smear, thick spot, this could be removed with the stain, it would dissolve the glob and the rest of the stain remained in tact with out lightening or darkening.

[Swingman]

Biggest problem I had was on areas that had corners or 90 joins. It stayed darker in corners, where it was difficult to reach, and lightened everywhere else. To the point I've ended up using q-ips to blend the corners and 90 joins. PITA

[Leon]

I hate staining corners and the number one reason that I now prestain pieces before assembly if it will save me from applying stain into corners.

[Swingman]

Me too, but that doesn't work when the client changes their mind about the color. :(

Spent $340 on one project just deciding upon another stain ... after the first coat went.

If you need a few gallons of some very nice stain, might want to look at my inventory.

[woodchucker]

damn, that's nice for Java.. I have not been a fan of Java b4 but that came out nice.

[woodchucker]

Bartley's is still available. I just bought some 3 months ago, haven't used it yet.

[krw]

Makes glue squeeze out less of a problem, too.

[Leon]

:-). Always test on scraps. I never stain the work before presenting samples. But if it is who I think it is, no amount of precautionary measures is guaranteed. :-(

[Leon]

Bartleys is available again and manufactured by another manufacturer, again.

I used Bartleys for years until I learned that Lawrence McFadden acquired the rights to manufacture the product. LF was a superior product, IMHO. Lawrence McFadden went out of business and Seagraves coatings now manufactures the products.

And I have only seen Bartleys online, not in any local stores.

[Brewster]

Great! I love how that stuff works. Is it still called Bartleys?

-BR

[Swingman]

Gee, why didn't I think of that. /S

You think? LOL