That's what I ended up doing. I probably redid 80% of the joints by
the time I was done, and all appears to be leak free. Whatever pipe
sealant they sold my at Home Depot you can wipe your arse with.
Now that the system is up and running, it's time to shop for nailers.
On 25 Jan 2004 21:20:11 -0800, email@example.com (BIG JOE) wrote:
Out of nowhere comes another useless Home Depot dig. Since HD does
not have store brand items (except for Ridgid) the pipe sealant is
probably sold in thousands of other stores and plumbing suppliers.
Why pick on HD?
I'm not Bob but I can tell you that I've had the exact same problem with pipe
dope I've picked up at my plumbing supplier. The stuff you purchased is fine,
nothing wrong with it. It's the treads of the fittings and/or pipe. Please
trust me for a second on this, the fittings from even the most trusted supplier
can be suspect. Pipe threads can vary just because of the amount of wear on the
cutters at the time they were cut, let alone where they might be made now,
Tiawan is a big producer as well as others. I'm not a plumber (am a contractor)
but the other 3 male members of my family are so I learned years ago to use 2-3
wraps of teflon tape with a dose of pipe dope added to insure a good seal.
Anyone that says they get a perfect seal every time with just dope is blowing
smoke up your ass because they haven't done much of it, if any.
BTW, Ridgid woodworking tools are only sold at HD. Their line of plumbing tools
(great products) are sold in many places.
An unkind remark is like a killing frost. No matter how much it warms up later,
the damage remains.
Ok. Time for my two-cents worth on this topic. Coming in from the
Industrial side of the fence, the first thing you learn is that to design a
leak-free system, you do not use NPT threads, the kinds you find at the Borg
(as you call them) and Lowes and such. It's everywhere!
Teflon tape is a great sealant, if used properly, and the only kind you
need. The Teflon dope is a good lubricant and sealant, but I see no need to
use both. If you wrap the pipe starting from the opening end back with a
couple of wraps as Scott suggests, you'll be fine. If you come from the
school of thought "if a couple is good, then four must be great!", you stand
the risk of cracking the pipe while tightening it. Seen it happen.
In industry, beware of poor wrapping practices with teflon tape because
pieces of the tape can get into valves and such and foul them. Imagine the
same is true with nailers and other air tools.
I run allot of black gas pipe from time to time for my job. We use
Rectorseal with teflon. Before that we just used plain ol' Rectorseal. Sure,
I get a leak from time to time, but for the many thousands of feet of gas
pipe I have threaded I assure you you can get a good seal with just pipe
dope. We are not allowed to use teflon tape, it is against mechanical code
in our area.
I did a job a while back that feed 8 differant heating units, total load was
around 2 million BTU. Ran about 300 feet of 2" black pipe, and about 150
feet of 1" pipe, plus 3/4" and 1/2" to connect the equipment. Put a pressure
test on it at 2 pm Friday, and on Monday it was still holding, no loss in
pressure at all.
From what I see if someone gets a leak, the pipe was not tight enough! Sure,
you can get a bad thread or fitting once in a while, but if I find a leak, 9
times out of ten it just needs another turn or two. 2" pipe for example I
tighten with 24" pipe wrenches untill I can not turn it any more. Give it a
few minutes and I can usually give it one more turn.
On 19 Jan 2004 15:25:26 -0800, firstname.lastname@example.org (BIG JOE) wrote:
Are you sure the system isn't leaking at your quick release fittings?
These are the obvious leakers in any air system, and there is an
enormous difference between good quick release fittings and cheap
Well, the audible leaks are at an end cap (for future expansion to
garage), and the one and only normal coupling (i.e., not a union) in
the system. I bought my quick release fittings at the best hardware
store in town (UA100 will attest to that), because I'm aware of the
quality issues with BORG stuff. They appear to be leak free.
On 20 Jan 2004 07:18:17 -0800, email@example.com (BIG JOE) wrote:
This makes sense. These can be much harder than unions to get tight,
since you often can't use a vise. Why not replace the coupling with a
union, and replace the end cap with a union+nipple+endcap made up in
a vise (so it will be nice and tight)? Seems like having your endcap
on a stub+union would be better for future expansion anyway, you could
just replace the capped stub with your new pipe later.
Plumbers mix this gray powder with water and apply that to threads
before screwing together. I don't know what max pressures it will
support, but I fixed my black pipe garage compressed air system using
this. I remember how disappointed I was after final joint was
completed and hearing the hiss. But that was nothing compared to my
amazement at how #$!%*@ up some of the cut threads were. I mean holes
between threads. Until now, I never paid that kind of attention to
threads. I kinda remember about $4 at any plumbing shop. Also, its
organic, but don't breath it. Dries in about an hour, 24 for full
cure; its only the water that needs to evaporate. Good luck, Tom.
firstname.lastname@example.org (BIG JOE) wrote in message
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