Question for the guys that laminate stuff all the time. I fixing to do a
small half round table for the end of my hallway. I'm going to do it in
walnut to match the living room furniture. I need to make a half round
apron obviously laminated. How thick do you all resaw the pieces? Would/do
you do the whole apron in walnut or just the outside piece and use a
secondary wood for the rest? What type of glue to use, gorilla or brown
titebond? I've got the form made, hopefully that was the hardest part. I've
never done any laminating or bending before, and what I've googled up really
didn't answer what I wanted. Many thanks!
Depending on the radius of the curve you'll find that from 1/16 to 1/8
will work well. I'd steam the wood first and clamp to your form, let
it dry then laminate the pieces. You can easily use walnut for just
the outside layer, I'd do both the front and back, with only the middle
pieces a secondary wood.
For glue I prefer to use something that has very little movement. My
preference has always been epoxy but then most of my laminations have
been for marine applications. I'm sure others will chime in with their
Tim Taylor wrote:
Tim Taylor wrote:
> Question for the guys that laminate stuff all the time. I fixing to
> small half round table for the end of my hallway. I'm going to do
> walnut to match the living room furniture. I need to make a half round
> apron obviously laminated. How thick do you all resaw the pieces?
> you do the whole apron in walnut or just the outside piece and use a
> secondary wood for the rest? What type of glue to use, gorilla or
> titebond? I've got the form made, hopefully that was the hardest
> never done any laminating or bending before, and what I've googled
> didn't answer what I wanted. Many thanks!
So you want to use some boat building techniques huh<G>?
I'd probably use 1/8"-1/4" thick stock for laminating depending on the
radius of the piece.
Run some tests on a couple of pieces to see if they will conform to
your jig before cutting all the stock.
Since the laminations are not going to be visible, use walnut for the
whole thing. Why? Because you only have one material to handle.
Epoxy. Get a slow hardener and mix small batches. Will give you time
You don't indicate the width of the lamination, maybe 4"-5"?
Spring back can be a little squirrelly.
Plan on some spring back, probably something like 1/8"-1/4". You might
get lucky and not have any. Another reason to use only one type material.
Don't be in a hurry to get the piece out of the clamps.
I have left some laminations for a week.
The important part is the radius.
If its a tight radius - 1/6" strips. Large radius - 1/8"
You can use bending luan for the core and only use the walnut on the visible
I used gorilla glue and plastic resin glue (urea formaldehyde) with great
success. Its all a question of speed. (If waterproofing is not an issue).
If you can glue it all up and clamp it in less than five-6 minutes, regular
titebond will work - 7-15 gorilla will do - GT 15min use plastic resin glue
or epoxy. No matter the choice - leave it clamped a minimum of 24 hours.
Thanks so much for the info guys! I'm gonna catch a few z's (had to pull an
all nighter due to the storms) then I'll resaw me some 1/16" pieces. It's a
pretty tight radius. It's to fit in a 20" wide space at the end of the hall.
I had looked around a little just going to buy one, but everything I found
was way too big. IF, and I repeat IF it turns out, I'll post a picture. I
really do appreciate the help on this one. Like I said, I've never tried to
do any laminate work. Although the 75 or so feet of walnut was free, I hate
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