Jointer Recommendation- Jet or Delta?

[william morrissey]

I'm looking at $400 6" open stand jointers- as a hobbyist, thats what my budget can stand- and the Jet or Delta seem to be among the most popular. I'll likely be feeding it mostly softwoods, and occasionaly some oak or cherry. Among the first jobs I'll throw at it is thickness planing(maybe 1/8") almost 800 linear feet of pine or poplar for some custom door/window casings. I'd appreciate hearing about any good or bad experiences, and am certainly open to any ideas or brands. Many thanks.

[Lee Gordon]

[Stephen M]

IMNSHO it doesn't matter. In that price band, they are all about the same, and every manufacturer has a lemon now and then, so buy from somebody that will take care of you if you get unlucky. Buy the one from the local dealer with whom you would like to establish a relationship, or buy the one that comes with free liftgate delivery, or the cheaper one.

-Steve

[Edwin Pawlowski]

Flip a coin, but also look at the Yorktown from Wilke Machine.

Jointers are for smoothing one side, not for thicknessing. You want a planer for that job. With a jointer you may end up iwth two smooth side, but a trapazoilal configuration. Planers make it parallel. If yo are using standard surfaced wood from the lumberyard, you don't need the jointer, just a planer. Ed

[william morrissey]

The recommendations to buy a planer are well taken- that is on my list eventually. My primary intention for the jointer is to use it as a jointer; it's just that I've got a house full of doors and windows to trim, and I'm planning on casing them in post and lintel. I think that

1x4 stock for the legs and 5/4 for the header looks too "heavy", so I was planning to remove approx 1/8'' ( or even up to 1/4'' -in several passes of course) thickness from the legs and use 3/4'' for the lintel. No doubt a planer would be easier and more predictable. Maybe I'll blow the budget and buy both!

[musials]

You in St. Louis? I have an old 12" Delta planer with an extra set of knives that you can have for 75.00

Steve

[Edwin Pawlowski]

No, from your description, you want to thickness, not smooth.

Yes, that is what a planer is for. You need the planer, not a jointer. If you only buy one piece, get the planer. You will have more precise control and repeatability that a jointer will not give you.

[Wilson]

Yep. the planer is really the thing and is available used, as are jointers. It there's any way to hold out for a used one with longer bed, it's a good thing to have. This wood is light and the way you will install it will allow you to force it straight, but it's hard to straighten much bow in 7' pieces with a short jointer.

My old C'man jointer is a very good machine, but way too short for long boards. You can straighten perfectly well with either a RAS (my favorite) or a TS and a sled, then put that edge through the jointer if you need a better finish. With a reasonable blade, I get an edge easily made usable with a pass or two of a rubber sanding block. I like the edges rounded a little, so I'm always sanding anyway. Wilson

[Patriarch]

Dealing with Delta right now, as they undergo transition to B&D, is reported to be very painful.

[Robatoy]

I like the way this man thinks.

[Ba r r y]

In fact, you can add in Rigid, Grizzly, Sunhill, etc...

All $400 imported jointers are pretty similar, and they'll all make boards plenty flat & straight.

A jointer is NOT a space shuttle part.

Barry

[habbi]

I just bought this one

is an imported from china model which I am sure is the identical machine as the jet and very close to the delta. The delta has a lever under the infeed table as opposed to a wheel. It has the jack screw system for adjusting blade height which is very important. I ran some pine through it and it comes out absolutely perfectly flat and smooth as glass. I say get the cheaper one. Mine cost $399.00C about $320.00 US.