I currently possess no jointer and only miss it occasionally.
I'm on and off as a woodworker, and mainly seem to do kitchen cabinets
and such (i.e. plywood, w/solid trim out). (The never ending
kitchen... pics coming soon - I hope).
I keep thinking I'll find time (and one day I will!) to expand my
So, whadya think about acquiring an 8" jointer, used, made in usa? I
fear these might become a rarity, and I'm not too happy with the
chinese crap i've gotten - even delta's x5 line.
Idea being, I _might_ need it one day (right?) and it may not be
available except as chinese junk.
Yep, once you've got it, like so many things, you'll wonder how you could
have been boneheaded enough to use the workarounds and make-dos.
Heck, I just got one of the Veritas edge planes, and it's almost indifferent
to climbing grain in use. Wonder how I muddled through without it for
trimming and adjusting. Then there's the shoulder plane....
8" has been the sweet size for me, based on the fact that most of the
lumber I get is 6-8" wide. Most wide stock is either seriously
upcharged or limited availablity. On the rare occasions that I buy wide
stock, I'll have the dealer face joint me a reference for my planer, or
the wood will be cut into narrower parts before jointing with a hand,
band, or jigsaw.
I also like my DJ-20's fence height, which is taller than most smaller
machines, but not as tall as the DJ-30's. I felt the DJ-30 fence
bordered on too tall the few times that I've used a DJ-30.
me a reference for my planer, or the wood will be cut into narrower parts before
jointing with a hand, band, or jigsaw.
There is a less expensive and relatively easy way --- Use a scrub
plane and winding sticks. You only have to level one side fairly close
and then run it through a surface planer.
joint me a reference for my planer, or the wood will be cut into narrower parts
before jointing with a hand, band, or jigsaw.
That's the way I did it for a few years before I was finally couldn't
justify spending the day getting the lumber milled and couldn't resist
the introductory offer on the Griz G0586. I used a jointer plane and a
Sargent 6, but that was the only difference.
It worked, I just never could get the hang of getting it done fast.
Some boards just wouldn't cooperate. I thought I'd get faster over
time but I never did. Finally the projects were piling up and I just
gave up on the planes for that particular task. Now it takes me an
hour or less to square up all the stock and I realize that with the
planes I was getting the stock pretty close to flat and square, but
not quite true. Since I got that jointer, everything in the project
goes faster because the stock's all square up from the getgo.
I'm not saying Joel's way is the wrong way. Just that although I enjoy
using hand planes - those long days I spent prepping the stock were
actually fun - but for some reason I was never able to get the hang of
squaring up stock properly and quickly. I'm okay at it and if the
jointer's down I can do it, but I now know that I'm one of the reasons
they invented those things.
But when there's only one or two pieces I prefer to slap 'em on the
bench and do 'em by hand. It's still fun and it's faster than getting
the jointer station ready. Small shop, y'know.
I have a Delta Milwaukee 8", from the mid-fifties vintage, completely
rebuilt and tweaked by a fellow I know and trust.
I still only use it maybe once a year.
They come around, if you feel that you might need one in the future. Mine
currently blocks easy access to some storage shelves.
Don't be in too big a hurry, is what I'm saying, I guess.
If you start with rough cut wood from the saw mill or your own resawn
wood, you will use it constantly, if not, it will probably take up
You will have to go way back to get a made in USA jointer, most went
to Taiwan and then China some time age.
IMHO The best big jointers are the type that use the parallagram table
height adjustment design with eccentrics for coplaner tuning. The
Delta DJ's are excellent, however, they were made in Brazil at Invicta
and badged Delta. They were moved to Taiwan about 10 years ago, still
maintaining very good quality, but Invicta still makes the same unit.
I don't think that design was ever made in the USA.
You should avoid the chinese wedge beds unless you are just looking
for low price.
Curious, most X5 units are made in the USA, what X5 unit were you
On Fri, 27 Jul 2007 17:56:33 -0500, Frank Boettcher
Hmm. That's interesting. So, you're saying the Delta DJs aren't made
in the USA, but Brazil, now Taiwan for the last 10 years?
Bought the X5 drill press. DELTA service was really really BAD to the
point that I will NEVER (NEVER!) buy a new Delta stationary tool
again. They basically took that attitude - well, if you don't like
it, return it. Before which they tried to convince me it was
perfectly acceptable to have it wobble that much. Before which the
person answering the phone said, "what's a drill press".
The drill bit wobbled noticeably. The local vendor, Skarie in
Baltimore, replaced the entire head. To tell you the truth, I haven't
had the opportunity to really test the new head yet.
But, I did have the opportunity to deal with the holes the old one
drilled. My kitchen cabinets' shelf holes all are oversized from the
wobble. I'm taping the shelf pins so they stay in place. This, from
a unit that is their top of the line, and rather pricey.
And, yes - "Made in China" right on the head. Bee-u-ti-ful. I'm so
happy that they're getting such a bargain making the top of the line
models in China so their brilliant MBA (or whatever) CEO has more $ in
Problem is, most stuff is made there now.
Yes, the unit itself. The stands, motors and controls were supplied
from the U.S. factory until about 2004, now they are coming from
China, I think.
Those invicta made units were/are great and there is a big difference
in quality comparing Taiwan to mainland China. Those are still good
units, unless the've been moved to China.
You're preaching to the choir here. It is unfortunate. You used to
have a choice not so long ago. The good Delta drill presses were made
by Lindquist Machine Company (LMC) in the USA, but I think that
relationship may be over also.
You can edge joint on a router table so pick it up if you will be face
jointing boards.I couldnt do without one, but unless you ("I keep
thinking I'll find time (and one day I will!) to expand my horizons")
expand your horizon you dont need it, for sheet stock.
I have a 6" Jet (made in China) that I'm happy with. If you have shop space
an 8" would be nice. A friend has the 6" Rigid jointer from Home Depot and
he likes it. They are priced around $350 (I think).
I often buy my wood milled 2 sides and 1 edge. I think the charge is 55
cents per board foot. It's cheaper than buying a larger jointer, and it
saves me a lot of work.
The yard I buy from will do it while I wait and there is no set up fee.
Usually Made in the USA (or Canada) is good when it comes to heavy
machines. A used jointer needs to be examined for flatness. Some
tables can acquire a bend due to abuse, etc. An 8" jointer is nice
and a useful table saw companion, I have one and used it several times
Frankly, they are over rated. You've gotten along this far so why spend the
money that can be used on beer and women instead?
Just curious though, where is this jointer? Address or telephone? I just
want to rib the seller about his high price and see how long it takes to
sell it. We'll show him.
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