I'm going to make a few of these for gifts this year. I see that it's joined with manufactured finger joints, but I wonder if there's a better way. Thoughts on this?
Also, it's made with sapele and mohagany, but I'm thinking red oak or hard maple might work just as well for strength and looks (and price). Not sure.
It's not complex. I don't get what you are saying. I know some specific plastics that are suitable for outdoor use as I have indicated. Picking a single one is like asking which metal is best? If your requirements are complex it's a complex answer. If you just want a plastic table it's not a complex answer. Ask Tonka what plastic they make their outdoor stuff out of. I'm pretty sure they pick a plastic that won't fall apart for many years.
My kayaks are HDPE with UV stabilizers added. I have an HDPE canoe that has been on my dock in the sun for well over a decade.
BTW, what was the question?
Actually, it's joined with screws through the back of a sloppily cut mortice.
The side pieces are built up using a glue joint so they could use cheaper narrow stock. It would be best to use single wide piece for each side; the way they did it, the front leg grain direction will make them weak.
cutting tenons on the backpiece to fit matching mortices on the sides would be the best joinery method.
Any hard or softwood would work fine in this application (old-growth douglas fir, properly selected, would match the grain and coloration of many older acoustic guitars). DF with Dalbergia Nigra would also be nice.
Almost any stable wood would work fine. As for joinery, if I were doing it and really gave a rat's about what the recipient(s) thought of it I'd join the vertical pieces to the horizontal/foot pieces with deep mortise and tenon joints and the cross piece to the verticals with through M&T joints with contrasting wedges for show and so the recipient might appreciate that some work went into it. Just me, of course...
If I was doing it, I'd choose a design more like one of these:
With the bend, it does flow much more pleasantly. But now I'm wondering why the joins between the "legs" and the vertical are so abrupt. A Maloof-like join would have been superb (although the amount of work added to do that would jack up the price immeasurably).
And I'd advise reading the reviews on the first one before going with that design--it has some issues.
Well, I did say a design "more like one of" those (than the Taylor stand). I'd actually design my own. It would look more like those at Southmtwoodworks than the Taylor stand.
e wide piece
Thanks for all the thoughts on this -- Scott, John, J Clarke. I did read th e reviews, after you suggested it. I appreciate it! It appears that there a re four places where a guitar can get dinged on this stand. I will make one and see if I can move the rubber supports to better protect or maybe attac h a strip, if it doesn't look too bad, on those parts.
Much appreciated!
Pocket hole screws, dowels, biscuits, and or Domino's will replace the finger joint.
To those that cannot see the finger joint, zoom in where the horizontal piece joins the vertical piece.
Pocket hole screws, dowels, biscuits, and or Domino's will replace the finger joint.
To those that cannot see the finger joint, zoom in where the horizontal piece joins the vertical piece.
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