Glue dowels can have spiral grooves and I really like them better,
especially when using expoxy which has gap filling ability.
I am playing with some designs for exterior items and I plan to use
lots of splined epoxy glue joints to create panels. I'll make and use
solid wood 1/8 x 3/4 splines to sit in 1/8 x 3/8 edge dados. I am
trying to think how I could groove them, perferably at 45 degrees.
One item takes 18 lin ft of splines (it surprised me when I calc'd it)
so some productive method would be best.
Something like a gang ripsaw working on sheet stock fed on the bias
comes to mind... :)
If there were enough volume to justify it, guess one could set up an
arbor w/ several small blades like those for the 4" trim saws and do that.
Alternatively, if had a long spindle shaper could stack a few small
flute cutters although less convenient a form factor.
I've not seen a set for the moulding/planer setups a la Woodmaster, et
al. for multiple groove sets but would presume it would be possible.
Oh, I think they also have a gangsaw setup available for their
moulder/planer; I presume it would have the ability to set depth to only
cut a shallow groove; what flexibility in number/spacing of the blades
are I don't know, either.
On a somewhat less exotic thought, I could envision starting w/ a
sizable piece of stock cut on the bias and using dado blades on the RAS
and feeding it in rip cut moving the head between passes. If the
working material were large enough, one would end up w/ quite a sizable
chunk of stock in the end after a set of passes from fully in to fully
out along the arm travel. One could do something similar w/ the TS and
the fence of course, it's just quicker w/ my setup to think of the RAS
for something like this.
I've not done something of the sort; on it since it's a 16" behemoth it
has a longer shaft than the typical TS or 10-12" RAS that can only
barely handle a 13/16" dado set...I'm guessing could probably set up
maybe twice that on it.
Random of the cuff thought'ing about it... :)
You didn't mention the spcing between grooves, but say every inch or so,
it wouldn't take long to make 18*124 grooves on a table saw with your
miter gauge set to 45d. (twice as long if you do both sides of course)
Have you considered a biscuit joiner?
There are no stupid questions, but there are lots of stupid answers.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
I have a biscuit joiner and access to a Domino but for this project I
am doing a reproduction of an antique design and using the splines
specifically to retain the original joinery method. I am making some
minor adjustments to the design but I am sticking to the original
I am always thinking of production methods that will work if I ever
want to make 100 of whatever I am designing, not that I often get the
chance to make those hundred but I am working towards it constantly.
I'd be inclined to allow some clearance in the depth/spline width... even a
1/64" to 1/32" would help.
RE the grooves, maybe crush them in with a vice.... a jig (really a die),
with something as simple as bent nails to make the dents, could be placed on
one jaw and the vice tightened to press the nails into the wood. I'd think
it would be a pretty quick process using maybe a half turn of the vice
handle to loosen and tighten the vice. Index the wood to the next position
using the dents as a guide. The longer the jig the less wood shifting...
I'd think it wouldn't be a problem to do 8 - 10 grooves at a time on 1"
I've used my vice to crush splines and biscuits to facilitate glue ups and
the process outlined above shouldn't be a problem...
On 10/13/2011 2:39 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
If I read correctly, he's talking 1/8" splines--it'll be pretty hard to
compress them much at all in having any effective groove I'd think
unless it's quite soft material. Cedar or white pine, maybe, but no
hints on the particulars given...
It wouldn't take much of a groove to bleed off air and a bit of glue...
The 1/8" thickness is why I'd press them in... cutting them would leave next
to nothing for material if they would even survive cutting.
Outdoor projects tend to be made with things like cedar, red wood, or
pressure treated and they'd compress fine. If it's ipe that is a different
You could use one of those big honking soldering irons with a big tip
that you find at garage sales for $3 (and never sell), and burn the
grooves in. You won't need much of an indentation at all to relieve
the hydraulic/pneumatic pressure from the glue. If the glue is too
thick for that, I'd rethink the glue.
Start with a board 1/8" thick and 4", or so, wide by whatever long.
Make a scratch stock with multiple blades. Perhaps finish nails
protruding thru the stock and spaced at the desired intervals would
Scratch grooves in the board, offsetting the grooves on each side to
Saw off the splines.
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