: IIRC FWW had an article with plans on building that jig and I built one
: myself. I can probably did up the plans in .pdf if you would like a copy.
Thanks, but I'm mostly just curious and saving up ideas for later. I
don't have an immediate need. I'm thinking that I'll buy a planer
before a jointer, when I have an immediate need.
: I was able to flatten rough cut 4/4 oak 8-13" wide and 8' long with the jig
: and my stationary planer. That would be pretty tough to do with most any
: jointer unless you start getting into the 12" and larger jointers.
: Keep in mind that the boards need to pretty straight and flat to be able to
: joint a board that wide and long and have at leas 3/4 left when you are
: done. If the board have much bow or warp you would be better off ripping
: with a BS and or shortening the board to begin with to minimize the bow or
Great info - thanks!
Actually you can flatten a face with a planer, you just need to
support the stock on a sled that is stiff enough to keep it from
flexing and that doesn't let it flatten out.
And they do make planers that can also joint--the trouble is that they
need to have beds as long as any other jointer in order to do it
effectively, and to do it full width they need to have beds like
jointers of that width and that means a big, heavy, expensive tool.
There's more than one solution to any problem, but the purpose-made
tool is usually the most convenient.
Don't let that money burn a hole in your pocket.
Buy as the need arises.
1) Invest in a good set of 10" saw blades(24T rip, 50T combo, & 80T
2) Build jigs.
Buy a couple of sheets of 9 ply(1/2") & 13 ply(3/4"), then build some
sleds, if you don't have them.
3) An 8" Dado set. It gets more use than you imagine.
4) A bench top planer. (there are work arounds for a jointer, but not
5) A good ROS, I have a Bosch 3727 and wouldn't leave home without it.
6) A Fein Multimaster. The damn thing is VERY addictive.
7) A 3 HP router suitable for permanent table mounting.
8) Clamps, clamps, clamps.
Of all the things above, having material on hand to build a quick jig
will save your rear end more times than everything else above, IMHO.
I am not offering any advice here, but merely asking a kind of follow-up
question. Several people have mentioned the planer and while not
necessarily recommending one they have talked about it usefulness. But
it seems to me that since Andy has mentioned things like cabinet work,
furniture, and blanket chests that one of those drum sanders could prove
to be very useful. I have not built large pieces like that, but I have
built smaller projects that made me think how sweet one of those things
could be. I also think that if I had a lot of good wood that needed to
"planed" that a drum sander would be preferred to a planer. especially
if the wood had some sort of figure that may chip out during planing.
The two negatives that I see to this are that the sanders are a tad
pricey and dust collection would not be an option. It is also more
money than Andy said he had to spend, but I'm sure his arm could be
twisted enough to stretch the old budget a little. :-)
Good observation however for general planing the drum sander is going to be
way expensive as the sand paper will not last as long as the knives will
stay sharp. The sander will be very slow by comparison and many many
passes are necessary to remove typical amounts of wood and the passes are
about half the speed when going fast, as a planer goes on slow. That said,
a drum sander is a great tool to use after the planer for reasons you have
mentioned about tear out and if you make a lot of your own veneer.
As you pointed out, the drum sanders are pricey but about the same price as
a similar sized planer. My 22/44 sander was about the same price as my 15
stationary Delta planer.
Unless I was working strictly with small stock for small projects I would
not consider a drum sander over a planer.
If you buy your wood finished 2 sides and straight lined you will
probably not need a planer or jointer to soon. As soon as need to edge
glue boards you really need a jointer. As soon as you buy wood rough
or need to thin a piece of wood down to less of a thickness you will
likely need a planer. But if you are to give your cabinetry work any
shape you will really need a band saw. Now there are work arounds to
all of these pieces of equipment but they are all going to slow down
your work. Larger pieces of equipment make the process go faster. You
have to decide how much you need to speed up each process.
The other part of this is when you start doing this stuff for money
the more of the money you keep for yourself the better off you will
be. If you are paying the mill to do most of the work it may or may
not be financially benefitting. Buying rough lumber and milling it
yourself for the original cost of the equipment and the cost of blades
and sharpening will likely pay you in the end. All of this is
dependent of how much work you do. The cost of the equipment is
amoritized over many jobs to justify the cost before it starts paying
you. So weigh these thoughts in relationship to the work you expect
you will do.
Actually if you have a straight piece of plywood to use as a reference you
can straighten rough cut boards on a TS plenty good enough for glueing the
I typically don't use the jointer at all as I find that for larger boards
the jointer is overwhelmed. I can much more easily flatten a 10" wide and
8' long board with a jig and my stationary planer and much more quickly and
easily straighten boards edges with the TS and my jig.
IMHO and my experience with probably 85% of my work being for pay I find
that buying S4S is more expensive but not as expensive as my time.
Basically I would rather pay the mill and extra $200 than spend the day
millng rough cut or S2S myself. If I do the milling it costs me between
$200 and $320 per day. If I am building something for myself I am more
likely to do the milling myself.
I am not being contrary to prove you wrong, just adding another point of
view. Your view is certainly valid.
Maybe I forgot to mention that my dad has a stockpile of rough black
walnut boards that has been drying for 50+ years. All I have to do is
make one cool thing and I can get the rest. The planer might pay for it
self just doing that alone.
I hope that the Forrest blade and a jig will help me joint these
boards. Thats my plan. I placed the order last night for the Dewalt
Planer, Forrest WWII, Triton Router, Kreg Pocket Rocket, and the PC 3
nailer kit. Im more than a little excited! Its gonna be an early
Christmas for me!
Well, I elected to forego the Dust Collector for the moment. I know Ill
have a huge mess with the planer. I do the best I can with a shop vac.
I have a couple paper masks, Ill probably get a respirator when I start
doing the planing.
Ive always heard to on plane one side of a board and wait a couple days
for it to acclimate before doing the other side.
Do I have to worry about this with wood this old?
If you're taking about the same amount off each side and just enough
to clean it up then I wouldn't worry about it. If you're taking a
heavy cut on one side to reduce the thickness significantly then yeah,
it's a good idea to let it rest for a bit after planing--the moisture
content doesn't react instantly to humidity changes, so there will
likely be a gradient across the thickness. Not much of one but enough
to possibly cause a little bit of cupping.
Planer's don't usually make lots of "dust", they make more chip sized
particles, so unless you have health/alergy problems already, the paper
masks will most likely be fine, and a respirator overkill.
No shop vac I know of will keep up with most planers with a medium cut, but
if you make light cuts you can certainly keep the cleanup time down with
Exact opposite, IME.
I always make at least one planing pass on both sides ... different strokes.
Fact: freshly planed wood really needs to be stored where the air
circulation is the same on both sides, otherwise you will likely wake up to
bowed wood the next morning.
While it is not necessary to "stack and sticker", some do so.
What I do ( and what most hardwood lumber yards do with "SxS" stock) is to
store the freshly planed boards on end, as vertically upright as possible,
with a support point (in the shop, a shelf edge, cabinet top etc.) about mid
way or higher, so that air can circulate to both sides while its waiting to
Then again, not all wood, even of the same species, will act the same way
(mainly due to the way it was cut from the log, or from internal stresses
when growing that are released when cut).
No matter the precautions, it's always a crap shoot, and why you should
always order at least 20% more project stock than you need, or more.
The opposite actually makes more sense to me too. If you are only
revealing the "fresh" cells on one face then they could expand more than
the non planed face making an expensive potato chip.
That sound right?
thanks for your input.
Actually, and IME, the newly planed cells eventually contract due to
drying/loss of moisture, causing that side of the board to become concave.
As far as the "plane one side only, let it rest before doing the other"
_Most_ of the time a planer is used in conjunction with a jointer, one
surface is "jointed" flat, and then the opposite surface is planed parallel
to the jointed surface and for thickness ...
... therefore, the operations usually following one another, that sorta
blows the "let it rest between planing sides" theory completely out of the
Just my tuppence ... I do what I do because it works for me in my shop
environment, and in my climate. YMMV
Yes, you will. IMO, you should re-think that plan.
Planers don't make too much dust (so a respirator isn't all that important),
but they sure make a lot of chips, and they'll go *everywhere*. If you're
planning to collect them as they're produced, with a hose connected to the
shop vac, I think you'll be disappointed in the results, as the planer will
produce shavings at a rate probably too fast for the shop vac to keep up. And
if you're planning to just sweep up afterward... I think you'll be
disappointed in the results there, too.
That's incorrect. You want to remove approximately the same amount from each
side at the same time, so that each side of the board has approximately the
same moisture content.
Not if you do it the right way (same amount off each side, at the same time).
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
Well, Once SWMBO sees the huge mess, maybe then I can justify a Dust
collector. I love it when a plan comes together!
Without the planer I couldnt really justify a DC, So I bought the planer!
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.