My grandma is giving me an old mahogany dining set that once belonged
to my great-grandma. The table is about 65-70 years old and has been
sitting out in my grandma's garage, wrapped up in this plastic wrap,
for the past 15 or so years.
Anyway, my fiance and I went to go look at it yesterday - its
beautiful. We were both rather suprised to see that it is in decent
condition. However, the top of the table needs a bit of TLC. There are
a couple of spots that are sort of a milky white color (water spots
maybe??). The chairs were also stored upside-down on top of the table
and they've left a bit of a mark. They didn't scratch the table top or
anything, you can just tell where each of the chairs were sitting.
So... do any of you know how we can get rid of those spots? Or could
you point me to a website where I might be able to find some
directions?? I've never done anything like this before and I don't
want to use the wrong thing and ruin it.
Thanks in advance!
The first step would be to deternine what the finish is.
Personally, _I_ would stat by giving the peices some time to breath,
unwrapped, out of the storage area, and then perhaps give a quick wipe down
with denatured alcohol on a dampened lint-free rag
Yes, it is probably either varnish, shellac, or just a wax finish. It would
be helpful if we knew what is on the table.
I don't think I would do that, if it is shellac the alcohol could
soften/strip it. I would use a mild mixture of dishsoap with a soft bristle
brush. If the spots don't come out, then the op can decide if they want to
strip it or have someone else take a look at it.
a quick wipre witha damp cloth will not "strip"the finish off.
all it will possibly do is loosen up the surface slightly, and it will
return to it's original(but cleaner) state as the alchohol/solvent will
quickly flash off again.
Generally, fine furntiure is finished with shellac, nitrocellulose
lacquer, or a varnish. You want to find out which one by a process of
Find a spot under the table, that is finished, but is hard to see when
the table is used normally.
You will need: cotton swabs, denatured alcohol, lacquer thinner, vinyl
gloves, and a ventilated work space.
Apply a small blob of alcohol on the hidden surface with a swab. Let
it sit for about 5-10 minutes. If the area under the blob becomes
softened, blisters or starts to lift off, you have your answer:
If not shellac, then put a small dab of lacquer thinner on the same
spot. Let it sit and look for softening, etc. If it softens the
finish, you have lacquer.
Otherwise, you have varnish, or some other really tough polymer finish
like CAB lacquer.
HooooooooDoggies Lookie who the 'possum dragged in. Still pinin' away
with yer urinestain? Wassup?
Spokeshave stopped by a while back and appears to be re-loitering.
Paddy'O'Lac just wrote up a nostalgic bit and now you, Jums. You newbies
keep yer eyes peeled for Walt, Doug and Tom now, ya hears?
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
Offering a shim for the Porter-Cable 557 type 2 fence design.
I'm the wood finisher from NM, Jim McNamara is the one who lived in
Sugarland, TX for years. I used to loiter here long before Jim with a
capital J showed up, back when Paddy wasn't selling seedlac.
The milky white spots could happen if SOMEBODY put something hot directly on
the finish (say.... I dunno.... a BAKED POTATO or something....). The heat
could cause water or wood oils under the finish to volatilize and make a
distinct milky white spot. DAMHIKT.
It's hard to get this type of milky white spot out by rubbing or polishing
because its on the underside of the finish coat. The white spot on my
similar table hasn't gone away yet, it's been about 5+ yrs.
SIL used rottenstone and damp rag to get blush out of their table.
Daughter commented the table has never look so good. Unfortunately it
looked good only in spots where he abraded the finish. Jeff Jewitt
has a forum on his site www.homesteadfinishing.com dedicated to
restoration/refinishing, or words similar.
On Tue, 29 Jun 2004 02:06:44 GMT, "J.B. Bobbitt"
On 28 Jun 2004 14:32:07 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org (Melly) wrote:
firstly, if this is a valuable piece as it sounds like it might be,
get an expert restorer involved. you might be able to do the actual
work yourself, but the knowledge must come from a qualified person who
physically examines the stuff in person.
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