All set to start building a hope chest. No ply all lumber. Top, sides,front,
back,bottom boards joined.Line with aromatic cedar.
I would appreciate comments from people who have used walnut.
I can purchase kiln dried 4/4 2 sides surfaced for $4.16 B.F.( central Wi)
Any comments as to pluses or negatives?
I am not going to stain just using tung oil????
Oh cedar is$1.77 4/4 BF.
It really depends on what kind of look you want to end up with. For a
natural-looking finish with just tung oil, you'd probably find that 220
was sufficient. I've gone even finer than that when I wanted to finish
with poly to a mirror-like gloss.
Using an oil/varnish finish on walnut, run through all the grits to 320
(using an air compressor or tack cloth between grits), then burnish with
#0000 steel wool before applying the first coat of oil.
... works for me.
I've used some walnut in a couple projects, and it's a great wood with
which to work. Quite hard, but it's not difficult to work with either
machines or hand tools. If I needed some, and it were available for
about $4/bf, I'd definitely get enough for my project and some extra.
Good choice. Almost any other clearcoat would be fine too, but tung
oil looks good, it's fairly easy to apply, and it's non-toxic. I used
a urethane varnish (for more protection) on my last project containing
walnut, and the clearcoat really brought out some 3D figure in the
walnut that I didn't see at all before finishing.
Good luck, and have fun working with this great wood!
Some thoughts on cedar linings, which are inserted or applied _after_
finishing both sides of the walnut and allowing the odor to dissipate. Even
kiln dried and resin set boards are likely to bleed a bit, given the amount
of resin available. Leaves you the option of finishing the inside of the
lining with shellac to keep stuff from getting sticky and letting the odor
come from the back, or my preferred, a sachet or two for odor, easily
renewable. No sense hiding walnut, even on the inside.
My vote is with George.The walnut interior will look nicer than cedar.
I have a cedar closet and if left alone it will loose its scent and
need to be sanded to be used for moth protection. I made a Cherry/ Tung
oil handcut dovetailed hope chest and used plywood for the floor. I may
add a cedar floor but not the walls.
> Some thoughts on cedar linings, which are inserted or applied _after_
> finishing both sides of the walnut and allowing the odor to
You can use the drop offs from a cedar closet lining kit to cover the
bottom of a drawer.
Lay drop offs in loose, but with T/G engaged, so that at a future time
they can be removed and lightly sanded to release more aroma, then
Good man ... like cherry, it should be a sin to stain walnut.
Here's one made with both walnut and cherry, unstained, that just had its
third coat of oil/varnish finish applied at lunchtime today (1/2/07):
The finish is being applied indoors in my much warmer office due to a
deadline and the weather (high 30's in the shop at night the past few days).
A couple more coats of oil/varnish, followed by three more coats of oil/wax
should do it.
.... and I kinda like the smell of the finish permeating the office. ;)
Yeah, another person with a highly developed sniffer? Both cherry and walnut
smell wonderful to me when being sawed!
Being somewhat color challenged, other senses, like smell, seem to
compensate to the point that I can tell what kind of wood was delivered to a
job site that afternoon just by walking by in the dark, or what the trim
guys are cutting up on the second floor.
But, apparently like clashing colors, it can cut both ways ... a 70's German
dance hall, in the dead of winter, comes immediately to mind ... wheeeww!
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