:> Hi Rich,:> :> When yu say "cabinets" what are you talking about? Kitchen cabinets?:> Or things like dressers and hutches?:> :> To me, if you want a high end cabinet you make it with dovetails.:> :>
: "dovetails"?? what the hell are you talking about?
: we're talking face frames, not drawers. morbid curiousity forces me
: to ask you to post pics of your dovetailed face frames and doors,
Not drawers either. The carcase.
Mortise and tenon for everything I build but I cut mortises with a
horizontal router station I built some years back. It works adequately and
more important consistently. I'm not building cabinets in "production" but
more generally in onsite custom jobs and this thing can easily be loaded in
the trailer and brought to the job I categorize pocket screws as shortcuts
but there are times when they must be used. I do wonder about your use of
the word production. Are you actually doing continual repetitive cabinet
Haven't stepped up to the digital photo age yet but this will get you close.
Shopnotes issue #68 has the same concept with a few spins on it that are
considerably better designed than what I built. Following is a link to the
shopnotes back issue store that has a picture as well as the issue has
plans. If you look close at the pic in the link you can see angled slides
for setting the table height, this is a superior design to mine as I built
mine with 2 verticle slots with locknuts which makes setup a little more
complicated. Still works great though.
If the cabinets are tied down (kitchens or baths); I use pocket screws.
Inexpensive built ins like book case units will use pocket holes as well.
If the item is free standing or built in in the "furniture" class; I use
dovetail joints or M&T.
For high end cabinets with face frames, I still use pocket holes unless
somebody wants to pay extra for M&T. I use M&T and other classic joints for
furniture. For that, I have a Powermatic mortiser.
However, lately I have turned more to doing mortise and tenons with a
router. The jigs are simple, the milling is cleaner than seen with the
hollow chisel mortiser and I am convinced I have a stronger joint. Also,
when using a router, you can do a through M&T without worrying as much about
tearout as you go through. You still need a backer board, but even with a
backer board, there usually is some tearout with a hollow chisel mortiser.
So for me, since I can do the M&T easily with a router, I would go for the
pocket hole machine.
On Tue, 10 Feb 2004 15:25:56 GMT, Richard Holliingsworth
One thing not mentioned in other posts is a design consideration. If
you want the look of a tenon joint, pocket holes won't help. Granted,
that's rarely an issue in cabinetry, but it might be in yours.
We have one local artisan who finger joints face frames on cabinetry,
using dissimilar woods. The pieces are extraordinary, and naturally
the cost is considerably more. But these are as much art pieces as
So pretty much it all depends on your particular style, taste and
design. If you're looking at buying this equipment, you've been doing
this long enough to have a good idea of waht your business is, and
where you'd like it to go. Base your decision on that.
Hell these things are just kitchen cabinets nothing special, they have been
making the same old thing for the last 50 years just dressing then up here
or there or perhaps calling them "european" or the like . just buy a used
double doweling machine and you can do the joints in a complete kitchen in a
day . mjh
"Jeff Cochran" < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
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