The finished product will have an apron, but it doesn't help me in the
short term. The problem is if I try to use clamps to straigthen the
edge, I start to hear cracking noises, which is the glue giving way.
The other problem is that I need to straighten it before I run it
through a thickness sander (I'm planning on taking 3/32" off the top
layer), and I can't run it through with the apron on.
The wood I used on the top is mostly 1/4 oak. I glued several 1/4"x
2" strips together, so there are 10 pieces of oak glued together on
the warped side. When Gluing the pieces, I did each peice
individually, and I clamped the peice beside it, waited for the glue
to dry and repeated the process. One of the pieces might have been a
fraction to small, which might have pulled the top in...
As for other details, the glue I used was LePage Carpenters glue.
The plywood was cheap borg plywood, so it has a soft center, and had
only one vaneered side (which I placed at the bottom -- I glued the
oak to the unfinished side). I just checked and it has only four
What I did was I set my circular saw to a depth of 1/2", and scored
the plywood everywhere there was a seem in the inlay above. I then
built a steam-tent, steamed it up, and using some clamps, straigtened
out the board over the course of an hour. Once straight, I let it
dry for a few days, and then glued a piece of 1/4" handy pannel to
the back, using lots of glue to fill the scores I made in the
plywood. I then got it trimmed on a table saw to ensure the edges
It worked quite well, and it's perfectly straight except a 1/16"
deflection in one corner, which will dissappear once it's run through
a thickness sander (see my next post...)
I still don't know what caused the warp, but I'm glad it could be
fixed. Once I attach the drop-down border it shouldn't be able to
warp any more. For now, I'm keeping it clamped to a straight board
just in case...