heating shop

[Larry Blanchard]

We'll be moving next month and I'm going to wall off part of the garage for a shop. Still a small shop, but more than the 11x13 shed I have now.

A wood stove isn't an option because I don't generate enough scrap to keep one going and I don't want to either buy wood or go out and harvest it. Plus I have some safety concerns.

So I've been looking for heating and cooling options. A through the wall ductless heat pump looks like the best option, but I don't think I can afford one. A window AC/heat pump is more affordable, but I'd have to make a "window" for it. Finally, I could go with a direct vent gas heater and a separate AC, or just try to do with out AC - the garage will get heavily insulated.

I'd appreciate everyone's opinions or experiences with the above options or with any other option I may have overlooked. Thanks.

[Swingman]

No experience whatsoever, but ...

I have had this one my Amazon "wish" list since last year (never got cold enough to justify the expense), mainly based on reviews and one recommendation from someone on G+:

can easily run another 240v circuit, and I like the idea of electric over other types, but I would still want to run a usage estimate/calculation based on the specs to see what I could expect with regard to an increase in the electrical bill before leaping.

[Larry Jaques]

I'd build a carport, instead. (In fact, I did just that.)

Insulate it really well and you won't need anything but the $79 window heater/A/C unit.

-- No greater wrong can ever be done than to put a good man at the mercy of a bad, while telling him not to defend himself or his fellows; in no way can the success of evil be made quicker or surer. --Theodore Roosevelt

[dadiOH]

> I can easily run another 240v circuit, and I like the idea of electric

All you need to know are watts.

My shop is 20x25. I use one 1500 w 110v electric heater for it - and it is completely adequate - but the temp rarely falls below 50 degrees outside during the day.

One caveat, electric heater prices run all over the place with a low of about $15 (which is what I paid 15 years ago). Some have half power settings, all should have fans, probably a thermostat too. The caveat is that the wattage determines the amount of heat...two heaters with the same wattage may have wildly different prices but they put out the same amount of heat though they may differ in how it is distributed.

[Leon]

How cold are we talking about?

In Houston on cold days I use a 1500 watt 110 volt heater. I let it run about 30 minutes before I go out to work. The room does not get "warm" but the temperature is tolerable with out a coat and if pointed at where I am working quite adequate. Be sure to add weather stripping around your garage doors, cutting down on drafts is half the battle.

[dpb]

Don't say where so no idea of heat/cooling loads nor what you expect for a control range but...since it is (presumed) attached garage and (also presumed) central heat/air system, what about simply running ductwork to the shop area?

[Swingman]

My biggest concern has heretofore been not necessarily personal comfort (at least not yet, but that may be fast approaching), but keeping the project stock at a glue friendly temperature.

When I know that it is going to be below recommended chalk/glue-up temperatures, I keep my glue bottles, and sometimes the stock, in the office overnight ... AAMOF, I have done quite a few glue-ups on the kitchen island (much to Linda's dismay, although I don't know why the hell that would bother someone who doesn't cook?? )

[Jim Weisgram]

have a couple of these over my workbench that I stand under and I keep plenty warm even if the temperature is in the 30's. I have them set so they can swivel and pivot over the table saw and workbench areas. Other areas in the shop just stay cold and I dress warm. Each must be on its own circuit.

I don't use them to keep everything warm enough for a glue up. They may do good enough, but I don't trust it. I have an adjacent utility room that I can heat for that if need be. I keep my glue and finishes in an insulated cabinet heated with a couple of 25 watt light bulbs when the temperature gets low.

[Leon]

I have only had a problem with cold and gluing, you saw it in Oct 2009. I was laminating the veneers onto the bedroom bed posts.

Typically I nuke the glue bottle, I did not on that day, apparently.

[HeyBub]

Add to your list for consideration a Kerosene heater. Fairly inexpensive, easy and cheap to run, and portable.

[dpb]

On 10/30/2012 3:01 PM, HeyBub wrote: ...

Not _that_ cheap any more--I just filled the can and from the bulk pump K-1 was $5.50+/gal.

Also have the problem for shop of they _do_ smell and the hotdog ones are terribly noisy in a small shop and if humidity is a problem they'll add to it. That said, I have one for the shop (albeit this is the farm shop _not_ woodworking and it will heat a garage space to toasty in a short time so you can cycle it...

[Lew Hodgett]

------------------------------------------------------- Location, location.

Makes a difference.

Fuel choices for heating:

1) Natural gas 2) Fuel oil 3) Propane 4) Electric, only if there is no other option.

Lew

[Mike M]

Just like propane if you don't have ventilation your just putting moisture into air.

Mike M

[Larry Blanchard]

Sorry, I should have mentioned that. I'm in Eastern WA, we have hot dry summers and cold wet winters. I need A/C about 3-4 months a year and heat about 5-6. The other 2-4 months I don't need anything.

I've been using a window A/C for cooling - not too expensive. But my heating has consisted of one (or two on a really cold day) portable electric heaters. Expensive, and it takes 2-3 hours to warm up the shop unless I keep it semi-warm overnight, which gets even more expensive.

I do have natural gas, so a direct vent gas heater is probably the cheapest option for heat. And with no inside intake or exhaust, probably a pretty safe option as well.

But it does nothing for cooling. We once lived in a house with a heat pump in a similar climate to here, and I was impressed. So I'm torn between the gas and a separate A/C, and a heat pump to take care of both.

Here's one of the heat pump units I found:

But I need more research on capacity.

Thanks to you and everyone else who responded.

[Mike M]

There are times that I wish I had something like that in my shop. Just want to come out go to work and not have to build a fire. The things I did that help was put 2" of foam under 6" of concrete and once I get it heated up it stays pretty warm. Also insulated everything as much as possible. I'm in the Cascade foothills of Wa. so it can get pretty cold in the winter. I've got a Vermont Casting woodstove, and two

1500 KW floor heaters but that unit of yours would probably heat my 960 sq' in under 30 minutes. Normally I'd just go get it but now I have a girlfriend and "we" have a plan. Anyone need a 72 FJ40. I'm learning to clean up behind myself. She even expects me to finish putting drywall up in the living room.

Mike M

[Lew Hodgett]

-------------------------------------------------------- A heat pump has a lot going for it if you can handle the up front cost.

My guess is you are going to need something in the 15-20,000 BTU range.

Lew

[RonB]

I use a 30,000 btu vent-less natural gas wall heater to heat my 1,000SF gar= age/workshop. It does a great job on the coldest days. 30K BTU would be ove= rkill for you but they make smaller ones. You would have to provide some k= ind of outside air circulation but the fit of the garage doors and a vent i= n my attic access does well. I paid less than $300 for my unit and the plu= mbing added about $50 more. Easy installation.

RonB

[Mike M]

Might have to consider how much time is in the shop. If your out there a lot the heat pump may be best. If not the A/C unit when you need it may be cheaper.

Mike M

[dpb]

On 10/30/2012 6:30 PM, Mike M wrote: ...

Is really independent of fuel type; it's the unvented combustion that's the culprit...

--

[G. Ross]

>>> I can easily run another 240v circuit, and I like the idea of electric

Same here in middle GA. I have two 1500 w 110 v heaters. One cost $9 at Walgreen's, and one is all metal and cost about $15 at Walmart. The problem with these is the primitive thermostat. I try to keep the temp at 65-67 but even when the temp got to 72 one or other of the heaters would still come on for awhile.

Solved this problem this summer with a couple of thermostats designed for baseboard heaters. Wired them up to dedicated receptacles to plug the heaters in. They keep the temp within 1 degree all day long. My shop is well insulated so I keep the temperature the same round the clock. Some mornings I go out to the shop before daylight and it is always pleasant.