Hey, I'm really sorry - haven't checked my newsgroups for awhile and this got posted in the wrong place. It was intended to be a reply to a posting about a sale on Timberwolf blades. I called the manufacturer and was told that blades break on the welds because the ceramic guides are set too tight and they overheat, and that I may have had too much tension on them. I tend not to believe either explanation, though.
Why? Have you checked for heat after sawing?
Are you following the manufacturer's suggestions on blade tension?
Just curious. Never have lost a weld on mine, and I've been running ceramic guides for six or so and thrust bearings for a couple of years on my saw.
Why? Have you checked for heat after sawing?
Are you following the manufacturer's suggestions on blade tension?
Just curious. Never have lost a weld on mine, and I've been running ceramic guides for six or so and thrust bearings for a couple of years on my saw.
Reply
Honestly, I didn't check for heat. How much heat would it take? When I think of steel failing because of heat, I think, red hot. How hot would it be? Like an iron? I picked up the broken ends right away, didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. One thing I have noticed about these "premium" blades though is a grind mark at the weld. On the other hand, on the cheaper blades such as Craftsman there is just a heat discoloration there and the blade is smooth. However I've only gotten Craftsman blades for a 14" saw, and the Timberwolf blades for an 18". As far as tension goes, with my Dayton 18" it's strictly by feel. A small adjusting wheel is all you get. On the phone they said the Timberwolf blades were designed to work with minimum tension (just beyond the point where the blade would flutter, as they describe it) They also said it was important to relieve the tension on the blade when not in use. I have to say that much of this sound a little absurd to me, almost as if they're asking you to compensate for the inferiority of their product. I can't imagine them releasing the tension every evening on the 36" bandsaw at the mill shop I go to, and they never have any problems. I'm going to place an order where the shop gets blades, Bull Sharpening in Oak Park, IL. If those fail, I'll look for something that may be wrong with the bandsaw or my installation and
maintenance habits. After all, my saw was purchased for 200.00 and had to be modified for wood cutting. I had to remove a gearbox and direct-drive the 1475 rpm motor for cutting wood (with a reduction pulley of course) But maybe it's still running too fast! Have to look into it.
I have a Quick Crank on my saw. Takes about three seconds to back off four turns, another three to put it back next use. Tires will last longer that way too.
I wonder if the larger radius is easier on the welds too? Makes sense to me.
I do know that ceramic guides can put a lot of friction on the blade. They work well, but is it easy to make them too tight and potentially cause a problem.
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