..There are six things you need to know about compressors:
The maximum PRESSURE that it develops, the rated VOLUME it
can deliver, the amount of compressed air it can STORE, how
LONG the motor can run (which is also known as "duty
cycle"), how much electrical POWER it's going to take to
run, and how much NOISE it's going to make....
Also whether compressor is lubricated or not.
Never get non-lubricated one. I have a Campbell Hauser
Extreme duty belt driven compressor which can be powered by either
120V or 208V. I am running it on 120V plugged into regular wall outlet
in the garage. For what I do it is adequate. It can even blow sprinklers
in the fall.
If you are talking about using the compressor only for power tools and
general use, I agree with the lubricated vs non-lubricated. If you
plan to use that compressor for painting, I would recommend the non-
lubricated. You don't want oil in the lines when painting.
On Thu, 11 Dec 2008 18:21:06 -0800 (PST), BobR cast forth these pearls of
Not true. A lubricated compressor is better for all wood shop uses than an
oilless compressor. The oilless models are throw away, light duty, short
lived compressors, and they make a ton of noise. Whether the compressor is
lubricated with oil or not has no bearing on its use for painting. I think
what you were thinking of was whether to use a line oiler. Certainly, if
you're going to paint with that system, do not install a line oiler.
Simply oil your tools through the chuck, as needed.
Mike - quit wasting your time - this thread is cross posted to a bunch of
newsgroups and is going around in circles - there is some correct
information, much totally incorrect information (such as the orange peel
quote above) - just let this thing die
I visited a large number of bankrupt industrial places. Not one had an
There are good oil-less compressors out there, they are marketed to
dentists and are very expensive.
I sold one in 2004. It was 3 HP, dual headed.
I bought it from the military, as "broken, uneconomical to repair,
condition H1" for $400. Turns out that what was broken was a tiny air
line going to pressure regulator. A minute with a knife fixed it. It
sold for $1,200.
On Thu, 11 Dec 2008 22:10:59 -0800, Smitty Two cast forth these pearls of
Do you paint? I do. Never had an oil infiltration problem that was caused
by the lubricant from my compressor. If you're encountering that, you've
got compressor problems. For most people participating in threads like
this, oilless translates directly to the cheap shitty stuff.
And that advice would apply rather you are buying an oilless or not.
While a slight amount of oil had very little effect on solvent based
paints, that is not the case with today's water based epoxy and latex
On Mon, 15 Dec 2008 05:52:22 -0800, Smitty Two cast forth these pearls of
That is a very low delivery compressor. It is only suited for short useage
tools or pumping up tires. At 5.1SCFM, it will not support orbital
sanders, or other higher volume air tools. Nor will it support an HVLP
spray gun. If what you're planning to use it with is nail guns and the
likes, then it should work fine, but a lesser compressor (less cost as
well) would do that same job.
On Fri, 12 Dec 2008 06:39:36 -0800, Smitty Two cast forth these pearls of
As is true of most everything. We do however tend to fall back to the
rule, rather than the exception, since for 99% of the folks, the exception
is either out of their reach, or in some other way, not really applicable.
That makes the rule (for all intents and purposes) seem more absolute.
I do agree that in the greater sense of understanding something, the
exception should be noted.
Good luck finding a single automotive paint shop, or pro business in
general that gets by with an oil-less compressor. They're noisy, hot
running things that burn out if you run them too hard. A good oil
lubricated compressor exhausts a negligible amount of oil, and you need
a really good filter and moisture separater in the line for painting anyway.
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