I lucked into a piece of old-growth redwood reclaimed from an old water
tank. I made one piece of furniture out of it, and have a bit left
which I'd like to use for a second piece. However, there isn't much
left and if I could glue a couple of pieces together I could gain
flexibility in design.
Any problem just using some Titebond I or III? Keep in mind that, while
I have cut off any rot, this is reclaimed wood from a water tank, out in
the weather for easily 50 years, and the texture is almost crystalline.
Structurally fine for what I want, I just don't want the glue line to
separate in a few years.
Howzbout a SWAG? If you cut to unexposed wood, that part will likely
take the glue real well. The oxidized wood won't play much of a part
in the structural integrity, so don't worry too much about that.
I'd want to make sure that the glueup sections were completely dry,
after processing, before glueup.
My experiences with redwood are that 'If it's pink, it's good.'
Newman's First Law:
It is useless to put on your brakes when you're upside down.
I have redwood this and that about this place. Makes me something
of an odd guy - I'm in Texas. My redwood came from my trees when
we lived on the western slope of the coastal mountains in Northern Ca.
It really depends on the acid content. 50 years leaching on the inside
and outside means like there is little acid left.
I just had to take apart a large bench I built in 1986. That bench
lived on top of cement and later upon a Redwood Deck. My 4 level deck
was over 3000 square feet and we had planned on adding another 1000 but
we survived the Santa Clara Meltdown and retired without to much loss.
The wood was just fine on the outside, I was cleaning up the outside
so my wife would have another project from them. I found that once
moving here, and they dried out in the hot Texas sun, termites invaded
and left trails. No acid to kill them off quickly.
When living on the coast - our home was built upon a massive rootball
of our Redwoods. I had just over 100 100' or higher coastal in several
sub species. The house was built before we owned it but we got to
have some of the wood that was left in logs that were not toted off.
I called in a band saw sawmill and got the wood cut up into over sized
lumber. This is tough stuff and we have several large pieces with us.
Not a bit of glue in them. But I have used Epoxy. See if you can find
some deck /builder glue that lists redwood on the species list.
I plan on getting some auto Bondo and fill (with putty knife the 1/4"
wide trails down the 2x4x8' sticks that I planned down.
I suspect the crystal like surface might be just that - a chemical
reaction between the high tannin oils and lime in the water.
On 2/8/2013 10:24 AM, scritch wrote:
On Friday, February 8, 2013 10:24:18 AM UTC-6, scritch wrote:
My first thought is is should be fine. Redwood is a fairly soft wood and should
absorb the glue well. If you have a few scraps you might plane them and make a
test specimen. Glue it up and apply a load until if fractures and see what
- If the glue joint fails = bad.
- If the wood fails separate from the glue joint = good.
On Friday, February 8, 2013 8:24:18 AM UTC-8, scritch wrote:
Redwood is resinous, doesn't 'wet' well with water glues; you might
find that hide glue, or urethane (Gorilla Glue), or epoxy will be easier
Urethane glue isn't as strong as PVA (Titebond 1), but redwood
isn't terribly strong, either.
First Redwood is legally labeled as a Hardwood.
It is used to build multistory houses. Fir is best for King and Queen
Beams due to long strands.
The weathered and limed redwood likely takes glue nicely. I'd use
peg joints instead of glue if possible anyway.
When living on the West coast I had a 2 cord wood bin.
That was a tough bin. I used it for almost 10 years before I
moved. Hated to leave it there but he new owners fell in love with
it when we sold the house to them.
The oil vaporizes over time. Old wood has little oil.
On 2/10/2013 1:39 PM, whit3rd wrote:
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