Glue on Clamps

Depends on the type of glue.

Titebond can be softened with vinegar or a heat gun. If it's Gorilla Glue, you might have a problem. I don't know *anything* that dissolves that stuff after it's dried. Scraping and picking would seem to be your best bet.

-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com You must use your REAL email address to get a response.

Hmmm. Whenever I get glue on a Bessey clamp, it can be chipped off using a putty knife, awl, or a thumbnail. I thought one advantage (of many) is that dried carpenter's glue doesn't stick to them easily.

Phisherman responds:

Might not be a really terrible idea for him to lay on some Johnson's on the bars for the next time.

Charlie Self "He has all the virtues I dislike and none of the vices I admire." Sir Winston Churchill

Slam the clampheads into it. They are rugged clamps - that's why you bought them.

I've got a question about that and other uses of wax such as putting it on a tablesaw surface. What are the chances that some of it will transfer to wood and affect the application of stain or some other finish?

So how many guys should come over for the "laying of the johnsons?" ;)

Steer clear of the waxes that contain silicon. These *can* transfer to wood. Johnson's paste wax seems to be a good option. Just apply, allow it to dry, then buff off. I've not had any problems transferring to wood.

-- Regards,

Dean Bielanowski Editor, Online Tool Reviews

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Upscale asks:

Not high. I've been waxing table tops for a lot longer than I want to recall right now and I do not recall wax as a source of finish problems from anything cut on them. Not to say I don't recall finish problems, but none that were wax-related or could even be pointed slightly in that direction.

Charlie Self "He has all the virtues I dislike and none of the vices I admire." Sir Winston Churchill

Lazarus Long asks:

Depends on the guys' interests.

Charlie Self "He has all the virtues I dislike and none of the vices I admire." Sir Winston Churchill

I'll be damned if I'm going to put my Johnson in a clamp

Oh, you mean the wax, never mind.

I wax my table and fence all the time.. not much choice with aluminum... As far as I can tell, the only time I've had any transfer was once when I forgot to buff the new wax before using the table..

I've never got glue on a clamp, of course, but I did hear that you could take it off with a plastic putty knife and rubber mallet...

For me, the start of every finishing schedule is a thorough wipe down with naptha. (Especially if I've "tack-ragged" a project.) It de-waxes, de-oils, cleans; and it evaporates almost instantly.

Michael Baglio

Wire brush in a drill will make short work of getting rid of the glue

John

Send those nasty, useless things to me for disposal and tell your wife to buy you new ones.

Buffing it out is the key. If you, say, slather it onto a plane sole, let it dry, forget about it, then, just for the sake of argument, mind you, pick it up a week later and try to plane something with it, you'll wind up having a rough time pushing it the first few strokes, and you'll smear wax all over the wood. Hypothetically. This has never happened to me, of course.

On Fri, 17 Dec 2004 20:23:41 -0500, Silvan calmly ranted:

Oh, but of course. Properly used, one applies the wax, lets dry for no more than 15 minutes (important note), and buffs well. Just for the sake of argument, you also must remove the iron before doing this or you will quickly find your buffing cloth and fingers mysteriously becoming much thinner and covered in RED bodily fluids. (No, there's no DAMHIKT here...for this one, anyway.)

This sig complies with your apparent state of mind(?), Sylvie.

----- = Dain Bramaged...but having lots of fun! =

Re: Glue on Clamps

wire brush on: bench grinderr