Listen to Leon !!! I agree with what he says. I have 20 plus years in
stained glass (hobby only ) from lamps to windows etc. and oil
lubricant is for the cutter wheel. Inside curves are very difficult to
cut. Depending on the glass sometimes you have success sometimes you
have a oh ! sh--!!!! I would cut the glass oval in several steps
(small curvatures). The trick to cutting is even steady pressure of
the cutter on the glass and seperate the pieces in slow rocking motion
, this enforces the score line and seperation at the line. I would
also get a diamong stone to smooth the edges of glass.
well, a: you don't have or know of all cutters. there are some that designed
to cut dry. for instance there are some carbide wheels, and diamond tipped
hand cutters, that are like this.
b: second, it's not only for lubricant, but to help with the selfhealing
properties of the glass skin. i've been cutting stained glass for years with
a dry cutter. when i cut 3/4" glass, it's far easier to paint on kerosene
with a paint brush. cutting 3/4" glass won't break correctly without putting
something on the glass surface first.
While I agree with your viewpoint to some extent, there's another issue.
Generally speaking commenting on the abilities of others is
counterproductive because it carries the discussion into the domain of
personalities rather than technical issues. Dismissing another's comment
as "nonsense", even if it _is_ nonsense, is more likely to incite a flame
war than a productive discussion. Better to explain, politely, _why_ it is
I'll get back under my bridge now.
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
As someone who make stained glass panels I agree with the advise above. I would
also suggest getting a good glass cutter that automatically oils the cutting
wheel while the cut is being made. When cutting the glass don't draw the cutter
towards you. Use a push cut moving away from you body.
Buffalo, NY - USA
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