I am building a garden gate and my design prevents me from using a
diagonal brace. I am planning on using mortise and tenon joinery (with
pins) for the frame. (The design is somethig like this:
http://www.prowellwoodworks.com/gate/g_98.htm .) The gate will be quite
heavy (46" x72") and the frame will be 2x6 cedar.
My question is: Are glued and pinned mortise and tenon joints enough to
prevent sag? Has anyone built a heavy gate using mortise and tenon
joinery who can tell me how they hold up?
Secondly, what if there was a diagonal brace only on the bottom half of
the gate? (The top portion will be lattice.) Would that serve the
same purpose, or does a diagonal brace have to go all the way across
the gate? I really don't want any diagonal brace at all, but I might
be willing to compromise design for structural integrity.
Thanks in advance for any input.
I would build the bottom section as it's own gate and but the diagonal
support in, then build your lattice section on the top. In the end it will
be one gate, but really the bottom gate will be doing all the work.
I would build it one of two ways. My preferred method would be to insert a
3/8" all-thread in the top and bottom sections via a hole drilled through
the styles and rail. I would insert plugs to hide the nuts and washers.
Second method would make the rails as wide as design permits and use a large
mortise and tenon joints glued with epoxyed.
I've built similar gates from Western red cedar, milled to 1 1/2" thick,
using m&t joinery. The gates are 48" wide by 72" tall. The joints are not
pinned. I glued the joints with Gorilla Glue. They are 4 years old and
haven't sagged yet. The stiles and rails are 2X6 and the panels are 3/4"
I put headers across the gate posts to prevent the posts from leaning.
I can post a pdf file of the drawing on abpw news group if you want to see
I don't think your gate needs the diagonal if you use m&t joints.
I work with a guy who insists that the diagonal run from the top hinge to
the bottom outer corner.
Is there any consensus on why one or the other is preferable? It seems to
me that a triangle is a triangle is a triangle, and as long as one side of
the triangle connects the two hinges, the choice of whether the other end
is up or down is arbitrary.
What say you?
Is planform a term used in the aero-space industry? It's not a common term
used in the petro-chemical industry. When I Googled it, I got airplane
No matter how long I've been in the workforce, there's always something new
I agree with about everything said in this string, but we are not talking
about bank vault doors. The design Bert referred to has two stiles and
four rails, with the two bottom panels having captive pickets in them. The
two picket panels will resist tension and compression providing diagonal
bracing. If the pickets were long, they wouldn't be adequate. (Colonial
style raised panel wooden doors didn't have diagonals in them, the panels
provided the stiffening needed. Cross buck doors did have diagonals.)
Western red cedar is not a heavy wood. My experience is that with good
solid m&t joints, the gate will be stiff. I've built two similar gates that
are four years old at my daughter's house, and they just don't sag. I would
make the top and bottom rail go the full width of the gate to prevent the
stiles from trying to bend at the connection with the rails. The two
intermediate rails would join to the interior sides of the stiles. I did use
three strap hinges on each gate, which helps in minimizing sag. The hinges
are located at the rails and are through bolted with carriage bolts.
I've had good luck with buying rough cedar 2X6's and planing them to 1 1/2"
thickness, providing a smooth surface. Wear a dust mask when making sawdust.
If the diagonals are equal then the gate is square. Thus unless the
joints fail it shouldn't matter which diagonal you put it on.
It should still work if you are only bracing the bottom half. If the
bottom half is kept square it follows the top half can't sag. But I
would run the brace from the lower hinge to the outer middle so that
you aren't applying a force to the middle of the inner side of the
gate. Or put a third hinge there.
The firstname.lastname@example.org entity posted thusly:
Is it a matter of appearance that is causing you to not want a
diagonal? Personally, I rather like a diagonal for both rigidity and
appearance, but if you don't, how about using thinner stock in the
center decorative part, and run a diagonal internally? In other words,
the diagonal is sandwiched between the vertical pieces in the bottom
half of the gate.
I always put the diagonal from the top hinge to the swinging outer
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