food safe oils

Wrong. All commercial finishes today are food safe when dried and cured.

Metal has voids and pits and all sorts. If it was 'flowed' with nickle it might not. Steel / iron are there. Rust starts in these places.

Martin

How do I eat it all the time? As far as I know I don't.

It's used on coffee beans, pharmaceutical tablets, chewing gum, apples, lemons and other fruit...

And candy: Jelly beans, Malted Milk Balls, Milk Duds, Raisinettes, Goobers, Junior Mints, Sugar Babies, Godiva¹s Dark Chocolate Almond Bar; Dark Chocolate Cherries; Milk Chocolate Cashews; White Chocolate Pearls; Milk Chocolate Pearls, Halloween candy corn, most Easter candy...

If your food is shiny, it's probably because of shellac.

You're comparing a sidewalk crack to the grand canyon.

When I put in cutting board/butcher blocks like this for customers:

I generally present them, as lagniappe, with both these John Boos' products to maintain their new product, and all their cutting boards, thus far with excellent results.

I usually shy away from products that are applied to wood with descriptions/terms like "creme", and "mystery", but these do the job well, and the client's are always appreciative.

YMMV...

I don't think I will ever forget us cutting that monster to size.

And M&Ms :-).

I suggest everyone read the entire article - it's not quite as definitive as Ed seems to think. it's mostly based on the absence of reported illness or death from ingesting finishes. As the old saying goes, "Absence of evidence is not evidence of absence."

The article states:

"No manufacturer providing finishes to the woodworking community puts their finishes through these tests. Thus, no manufacturer can legitimately claim they meet FDA regulations."

Well, maybe not a finish manufacturer, but I suspect the purveyors of food grade linseed/flax oil have :-).

And Tried&True states:

"All Tried & True wood finishes comply with the product safety standards established by the FDA: "safe for food contact surfaces" (FDA 21, Sec

BTW, I don't particularly like T&T finishes - they're difficult to apply properly on large surfaces - too thick. But they work great applied with a rag to a spinning item on a lathe.

You'd think so, but shellac is NOT used on M&Ms.

If you use cream when you have wood it prevents sores and calluses.

By golly, I checked and you're right. There goes my usual example :-). Guess I'll switch to jelly beans.

Guess what I had originally typed just before Jelly Beans...

Can't understand why they would use it on coffee beans, shellac's not free. Maybe a preservative?

It's not a food-safe oil and it doesn't stand up well to the rigors of the kitchen.

People who buy whole beans like 'em shiny, is my guess, and the cost of the shellac is justified by increased sales.

Yeah, it's not a finish for that sort of usage. I'll stick with my mineral oil/beeswax mix. Cheap, easy, effective, and attractive.

Interesting. As someone who's a bit of a coffee snob and has roasted pounds and pounds of my own beans, I suspect that might be to masquerade old beans as fresh ones. Fresh roasted beans have a very oily surface and look wet. I could be wrong, but I don't think shellac would stick to the beans with this oil on them. It takes quite a while for this oil to evaporate from the surface of the beans. So long, in fact, the beans would be stale by the time it took for them to be dry. Applying shellac to make them appear oily(=fresh) is a shrewd trick indeed.

Sidewalk cracks as you say will rust any metal to nothing. Doesn't take grand canyon size cracks to have a surface variation.

Martin

With 3 ounces of beeswax, it's more a soft paste, a little looser consistency than creamed honey. Wipes on very easily.

Mostly the nut oils, which is why you need to be careful about allergies.

I've never used it on metal. but with any finish too thick a wet coat is generally bad news.