Hi, I have a couple of nail holes and knot holes in some black walnut wood I have been working with. I have tried PLASTIC WOOD color WALNUT but when it dries it is to light colored. Any suggestions on other brands anyone has used that have a much better match? I thought I read once that you can mix some sawdust of that wood with something else to get an exact match? Thanks
Try mixing it with glue, varnish or shellac. what ever is appropriate and do it on a sample first.
Jeff,
How dark is the Walnut? If it is fairly dark, you can mix carbon black (any black powder really) with 5 minute epoxy and fill the hole with that. I did that on this bookcase and it looks fine,
On walnut, I've had good luck using dark Elmer's Fill n' Finish, which is stainable, to fill small holes (maybe with a little sawdust mixed in). When that's dry, either a walnut stain applied to the spot with a small artist's brush, or even easier, a combination of brown or black Marks- A -Lot, blended into the surrounding wood.
The latter may smear on you a bit when applying other finishes with a brush or pad, so let it dry thoroughly before proceeding with your finish, then repeat, if necessary between coats, until you have it just right.
Applied before a seal coat, the Marks- A -Lot can actually be very effective, and I've even used it on walnut with a hand rubbed oil/varnish finish to good effect.
Hi Jeff,
What you want is shellac stick. These normally come in a set of 6 or 8 and are exactly the same as old-fashioned sealing wax. Select the approriately-coloured stick and melt it into the hole with a soldering iron. If there isn't a stick of exactly the right colour, you can chip bits of different sticks into a spoon and melt them together to get a colour match.
Sets hard in seconds and can be worked straight away. Your tools need to be razor sharp, and you'd gradually work any excess build-up down to "grade", rather than trying to cut it all down in one go.
Makes a good repair on an iten like a table-top. It's hard enough to take punishment and you can really localise the repair, so that you don't have to refinish the whole thing. For bigger areas, you can scribe "grain" patterns in it with a scalpel so that you get a good texture match as well as colour match.
Snippet - on areas which don't take any punishment at all - tops of legs, stretchers, etc - you can do the same trick with kiddie's wax crayon, again mixing them to get the right colour. And it's a lot cheaper than shellac stick.
FWIW, I've used the sander dust trick many times as well, but it's hard to get it to take stain to the same degree as the rest of the piece.
HTH
Frank
Try mixing a dot or two of black enamel into 5 minute epoxy. Apply it in a small dollop, leaving it proud. Let the epoxy cure and level with a sharp chisel or scraper. DO NOT attempt to level it with sand paper.
Try it on scrap, I guarantee you won't know it's filled once the finish is on.
Barry
"David F. Eisan" wrote in news:C0gec.84876$ snipped-for-privacy@news01.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com:
/sarcasm on Hey, David! Nice work on the bookcase. However, when you buy the picture frames, you're supposed to put in pictures OF YOUR OWN family. ;-)
Patriarch, who is going to need to build more shelves for all the pictures the wife has around here.
Pack very fine sanding dust into the hole until it is tight and the dust stands proud (above the surface) a bit. Drop enough thin CA glue - the cheap stuff works fine to soak into all the dust. Let dry and sand. I use this all the time on turning wood.
If you don't mind the spot being a very dark brown, finely ground coffee works as well as sawdust. I keep a bit in the shop for that purpose.
Jim
jeff wrote:
You could dry the dark brown Elmer's wood glue made for gluing dark woods.
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