Hi, I have a couple of nail holes and knot holes in some black walnut
wood I have been working with. I have tried PLASTIC WOOD color WALNUT
but when it dries it is to light colored. Any suggestions on other
brands anyone has used that have a much better match? I thought I
read once that you can mix some sawdust of that wood with something
else to get an exact match? Thanks
Hey, David! Nice work on the bookcase. However, when you buy the picture
frames, you're supposed to put in pictures OF YOUR OWN family. ;-)
who is going to need to build more shelves for all the pictures the wife
has around here.
On walnut, I've had good luck using dark Elmer's Fill n' Finish, which is
stainable, to fill small holes (maybe with a little sawdust mixed in). When
that's dry, either a walnut stain applied to the spot with a small artist's
brush, or even easier, a combination of brown or black Marks- A -Lot,
blended into the surrounding wood.
The latter may smear on you a bit when applying other finishes with a brush
or pad, so let it dry thoroughly before proceeding with your finish, then
repeat, if necessary between coats, until you have it just right.
Applied before a seal coat, the Marks- A -Lot can actually be very
effective, and I've even used it on walnut with a hand rubbed oil/varnish
finish to good effect.
What you want is shellac stick. These normally come in a set of 6 or 8 and
are exactly the same as old-fashioned sealing wax. Select the
approriately-coloured stick and melt it into the hole with a soldering iron.
If there isn't a stick of exactly the right colour, you can chip bits of
different sticks into a spoon and melt them together to get a colour match.
Sets hard in seconds and can be worked straight away. Your tools need to be
razor sharp, and you'd gradually work any excess build-up down to "grade",
rather than trying to cut it all down in one go.
Makes a good repair on an iten like a table-top. It's hard enough to take
punishment and you can really localise the repair, so that you don't have to
refinish the whole thing. For bigger areas, you can scribe "grain" patterns
in it with a scalpel so that you get a good texture match as well as colour
Snippet - on areas which don't take any punishment at all - tops of legs,
stretchers, etc - you can do the same trick with kiddie's wax crayon, again
mixing them to get the right colour. And it's a lot cheaper than shellac
FWIW, I've used the sander dust trick many times as well, but it's hard to
get it to take stain to the same degree as the rest of the piece.
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com ).
On 11 Apr 2004 10:31:20 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org (jeff) wrote:
Try mixing a dot or two of black enamel into 5 minute epoxy. Apply it
in a small dollop, leaving it proud. Let the epoxy cure and level with
a sharp chisel or scraper. DO NOT attempt to level it with sand
Try it on scrap, I guarantee you won't know it's filled once the
finish is on.
Pack very fine sanding dust into the hole until it is tight and the dust
stands proud (above the surface) a bit. Drop enough thin CA glue - the
cheap stuff works fine to soak into all the dust. Let dry and sand. I
use this all the time on turning wood.
If you don't mind the spot being a very dark brown, finely ground coffee
works as well as sawdust. I keep a bit in the shop for that purpose.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.