Hey all!
I just recently attempted ripping some 1x8x48 boards down to 3" widths on my RAS and did an okay job. However, I had some problems keeping the board firmly against the fence. Seeing as how I don't want to get my hands anywhere near the blade, I thought a featherboard on the outfeed of the saw could help.
I am pretty sure I could make one myself, but I can't seem to figure out how to go about securing it to the table to keep it in place.
Any advice?
Chris Mooney
Chris,
If your wood is walking during a rip it's because the saw isn't in correct alignment. What brand RAS do you have?
FWIW, I've run a commercial furniture shop for 20+ years, use only the RAS and have never used a feather board. It isn't necessary.
Chris
Route and >Hey all!
Outfeed? You mean to push both cut pieces into the fence and pinch the blade?
You want the wood held before the blade. Ed
featherboards go on the infeed side. you don't want to pinch the board together, now that there is kerf in it. that's dangerous.
dave
Christ> Hey all!
Clamp featherboards on the infeed side. Clamp a straight piece of board on the outfeed side to gently hold things in line without pinching the saw curf. Sometimes featherboards on the top of the board are helpful. mahalo, jo4hn
DOH!!! No wonder that didn't look right in my mind! I knew I was missing something, but couldn't put my finger on it :)
Chris Mo>featherboards go on the infeed side. you don't want to pinch the board
Pretty important on a RAS to have a bit of hold-down on the infeed as well. Need not be fancy, just a board with a curved edge clamped to the fence to keep the board you're feeding from climbing and possibly kicking back.
A properly adjusted RAS with a flat table does NOT need hold downs on the in feed side for rip operations. If you have moving wood, it isn't aligned and or your wood ain't flat. If you can't align your RAS to perform this way you might consider purchasing a DeWalt RAS!
VBG
The teeth pick up, therefore the distance between teeth and the feed rate must be carefully monitored or the teeth WILL lift, regardless of "heel." Simple physics. Now as most of us are not as perfect as you, or "one" with our high-class saws, we also give ourselves a margin of safety by using simple hold-downs. Safety is not a grinning matter.
Now, if you have a guard like my Powerkraft, you have the built-in hold-down by rotating the forward end down, and extending the antikickback pawls on the other side of the blade. Else, use the wooden fingers versus the flesh. Some even use hold-downs on tablesaws, where the impact of the cut is down into the table, rather than up - same reason.
by rotating the forward end down, and extending the antikickback pawls on the other side of the blade.
No one is suggesting ripping without the guard or the anti kick hold down built into the guard. If your wood is moving during the rip it's alignment or your wood ain't flat. Oh BTW, I regret I didn't mention, safe ripping also includes using a Forrest WW1 blade with the TCP grind and NO OTHER BLADE or profile.
I know...
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