I'm cutting out the "die-cut" windows from the 4 walls of the HO-scale
(1:87) Campbell Boat House kit and most if it has gone fairly easily, but
I've had much greater difficulty cutting the window and door openings in the
two end walls -- and there was a major difference in the manufacturing
method I used to create them.
For scale, the walls of this building model are constructed from 1/32"
Basswood that's scribed by the manufacturer to represent individual boards.
To get the entire wall height, it's necessary to butt-joint two or three
pieces lengthwise into a single wall. Knowing from experience that such
butt-joints, even in 3/4" lumber are notoriously weak, I decided to laminate
the manufacturer's supplied, decorated walls with very thin (1/64") aircraft
plywood that I could cut into a single piece the size of the entire wall.
For the two side walls I butt-jointed the wall segments with yellow glue
and then used a spray contact cement to
laminate the plywood backing.
For the two end walls -- the first ones I made -- after using yellow
glue to butt joint the segments, I laminated the plywood by "painting" the
walls with additional yellow glue.
Apparently the yellow glue in the lamination process soaked into and between
the wood fibers of the plywood during lamination and greatly strengthen them
to shear deformations (i.e. cutting).
Fascinating. And possibly a way to strengthen other plywood as well.
Although, to be fair, the lamination layers in this plywood are incredibly
much thinner than those in conventional plywood. For example, 1/4" plywood
with as many as 7 layers -- a very high quality raw material -- has
laminates that are 1/28" thick --- the thickness of conventional veneers.
But this plywood, 1/64" total thickness, is (IIRC) 3 ply, making the three
layers each roughly 1/200" (roughly .005") thick. I have difficulty
imagining any strength at all of a wood "slice" that thin so I guess that
filling in the matrix with glue would result in a significant increase in