Ok, there was a typo, but how did you go from "cabinet draws" to "face
The point of the post was to choose joinery that works, not just
joinery that meets some non-functional requirement.
I looked at, and replied to, the subject line ... up there ^ ... neat
trick, try it sometime. ;>)
I don't know, maybe my reader is somehow "misthreaded" ... How did you go
from face frames, with regard to dowels vs Kreg jig, to dovetails and
Damn, this feels like the Twilight Zone? My point, which you originally
quoted, was strictly about the Kreg vs dowels for face frames ... I would be
that last to argue with you about dovetails on drawers.
I'm going back to the shop, turn the lights on, then off, and then come back
in and start over.
On 23 Oct 2003, Swingman spake unto rec.woodworking:
Am I the only one here who makes face frames with half-lap
joints? I don't remember why I do it that way, I think it might have been
an article in a Fine Woodworking from the '80s. At any rate, the half laps
are self-aligning and give lots of surface area for solid gluing. Is this
an unusual method?
I usually make dust frames for cabinet drawers with "half lap" joints and,
now that I think about it, I am wondering why I don't use pocket hole screws
for that task also ... creature of habit, I guess.
Although I've tried it a time or two, I personally have a much easier time
getting M&T joints and/or pocket hole joints for face frames square without
gaps than I do "half lap" joints. But like the above, it is more or less
what you are familiar with and what works for you.
Actually, the joints above are what my grandfather, and an old cabinetmaker
I worked for in England for a short time, called a "halving joint", they
both used what we refer to today as a "half-lap" joint only on end grain.
Ok now be honest all of you pro pocket hole people. How many of those damn
step bits have you broken? If you say none, me and alot of other people here
will know for a fact youre fibbin'!! On the other hand I have yet to ever
break a biscuit! LOL
I've only used 4 or 5 packages of screws, but I've never broken a bit. I've
had a biscuit machine since 1992, but I don't use it much. I use a few
grains of sand and clamping cauls for glue-ups and prefer m&t joints for
other applications. I find pocket screws acceptable for face frames.
Well, the tip of the bit is about 1/2" long and 1/8" in diameter. I do not
recall having ever broken a 1/8" bit. I have 2 Kreg bits. I have a spare
for when the other is being resharpened. I have probably been through 4 or
5 thousand holes and have not broken one yet nor do I baby the bits. Keep
them sharp and you will lessen the likelihood of breaking one.
Ok I guess I got a way different bit then. My bit was an 1/8 but it was alot
longer that 1/2 before it stepped up. More like a full inch or so. The
stupid thing would bind in the jig just a slight amount and pop, there it
would go. I threw the thing across the shop and have never looked back at
it. Besides I hate screws and nails in woodworking, only use em when I
absolutely have to. I guess Im old fashioned!
Well for clarification, I just put the caliper on my 2 Kreg HSS bits. The
1/8" tip is 17/32" long. And it really should not be longer as it would
drill too deeply and into the jig providing the larger 3/8" section of the
bit is set correctly to drill deep enough for the screw to enter the other
Did you have one of those 2 piece stepped drill bits where the smaller tip
is adjustable and replaceable?
I could definitely see how a 1" tip extension could give you problems..
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