If you know how far the fence needs to be from the line, it's easy.
Measure at the ends of the line/fence, not at the bit. Say you need
to set the fence 3/8 from the line. Measure 3/8 from one end, put the
fence there, and clamp that end. Now, measure 3/8 from the other end
and clamp that. Double check the first end, and you're done.
Of course, this assumes that the lines extend the entire length/width
of the table.
You could clamp or carpet tape a piece of 1/8" hardboard or other
material (I have some leftover wainscoat panels the make nice 1/8"
spacers) to your fence. That would give you a 3/8" rabbet without
having to move the fence.
Of course its not the best solution and may bow away from your fence
near the bit.
I am still trying to find the time to build a version of Pat Warner's
fence (see www.patwarner.com ), but with 2 small ones that's not easy
to do. That unit is bolted to the table top and has a
micro-adjustable portion that you could move exact measurements such
as 1/8". I've bought all the material I need and I can tell you, its
not cheap though.
firstname.lastname@example.org (Ray Kinzler) wrote in
It may be a little late to post for this subject, but what the h!
I have found that the TV program "The Router Workshop" on Knowledge
Network here in Western Canada has taught me a lot about router uses and
safety. If you have this program in your area, it would be very
informative for you to check it out. They use a simple router table and
fence system, though they also use some jigs that are very expensive if
bought from their merchandise arm.
Norm Abram on "The New Yankee Workshop" often uses the router. Also here
in Canada you can see "In the Workshop" on HGTV. He (can't remember his
name at the moment) also uses the router table often.
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