electric sanders for refinishing kitchen cabinets

I have, or had, plywood panel until I went too aggressive with the belt sander. Looks pretty good except one small spot where the first ply was completely removed.

So what would be the best sander for this? 1/4 sheet and 5" ROS? Which ones?

Reply to
Kim
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what kind of finish are you trying to remove? that might dictate to some degree how aggressive you'll need to be, and whether you want to try chemical strippers instead of just sanding.

As for sanders, using a belt sander on plywood is probably not a very good idea in any circumstance. I've used a ROS many times, but you have to be very careful and not tilt it or let it stay in one place too long, especially if you use aggressive grits. In many cases, using a sanding block and elbow grease is the best way to control what you're doing.

Mike

Reply to
Mike in Mystic

Porter Cable SpeedBloc 1/4 sheet sander, it will get close to the walls and or in tight corners.

Reply to
Leon

Its has a dark stain and then some clear finish. No idea of what the clear finish is but its quite thick. Tried heat gun but too slow going. Don't mind using elbow grease but very tired now after remove about 1,400 sf of popcorn ceiling, skim coat, sand the whole thing and waiting to be painted before I finish the kitchen cabinets.

Reply to
Kim

What are you going to use for the new finish? If paint, no need to do other than sand smooth, no need to remove clear coat and stain.

If you have to remove the clear coat use a chemical stripper. If lacquer (may well be) you can use lacquer thinner; otherwise, a paint remover. You'll have to sand out the stain. And don't do it too agressively, the face ply is thin.

Personally, I like the Porter Cable #505 above all others...the soft pad helps get into low spots without digging more of a hole.

-- dadiOH ____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at

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Reply to
dadiOH

A much lighter stain or just leave it natural with a clear coat. Paint on good wood is like ketchup on good steak ... but each to his/her own.

Reply to
Kim

So is stain.

What are you going to do about the face ply through which you sanded?

Reply to
dadiOH

Nothing says the OP has to sand through the face ply.

Reply to
Mike Marlow

On Sat, 12 Mar 2005 15:21:42 -0500, "Mike Marlow" vaguely proposed a theory ......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

The op said they already had......

Reply to
OldNick

already permeated into the face ply.

Reply to
Kim

Sure it is. That's why it shows...soaks into the wood a ways. Doesn't mean it can't be sanded out, even on the skinny, modern veneers. Gotta be careful though.

If you do paint, don't use latex!!!!!!!!!!!!!

-- dadiOH ____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at

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Reply to
dadiOH

"dadiOH" wrote in news:VAYZd.6591$GI6.5676@trnddc05:

Do use a GOOD primer. Zinnser BIN white Shellac-based sealer/primer works really well, after you've cleaned those surfaces well. Open the windows, because the stuff stinks for a couple of hours, and the solvent is alcohol. But for what you're doing, I don't think there's a better home-center type of product.

Patriarch

Reply to
Patriarch

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