Dumb Lathe Question...

[Puckdropper]

"CW" wrote in news:845eh.8251$ [e-mail]:

If you're going to reply with a one word answer, at least provide some context, please! Are you saying that the whole post was bad, or just a paragraph was disagreeable?

Unresolved Ambiguity

[Andy Dingley]

Since you stuck a tool ground for metal turning into a piece of wood. Change the grind angles and it's not so bad.

You'll also find few metal-turning lathes with high enough speeds to be ideal for spindle turning, and those that do have them generally don't appreciate a coating of damp woodshavings.

I don't turn wood on a metal turning lathe, except occasionally using one for boring.

do turn metal by hand on a wood lathe though, or at least brass. If you're doing Victorian repro it's the easiest way to get the flowing curves on some parts --- the originals would have been hand-rutned too.

[Bruce Barnett]

"CW" writes:

It's more than that. I'm talking about the tool described here

quote Darrell,

"The tip is a 1/4" x 2 1/2" HSS cutting tool, standard in the metal lathe industry."

I can take the same exact bit with the same profile and use it in Darrell's tool, Then I can move it to a metal lathe. The bit doesn't change.

"Old guy" says it's a scraping cut in a metal lathe. It should also be a scraping cut in a wood lathe as well, right?

So I guess the question is

Is the Oland tool a scraping cut? Do all scraping cuts require a lot of sanding afterwards?

As Darrell says

"Some people object to the Oland tool because it looks like a scraper and they want to make shaving"

To be precise, Darrell says the Oland tool should be used with the bevel rubbing (for support I guess). That will change the cutting angle a little, but it still looks like a scraping cut to me. One could eassly add a negative rake to get the exact cutting angle as the Oland with the bevel against the wood.

[Bruce Barnett]

Thank's for the answer. What was the question? Frankly - I have no idea which part of the message you are responding to.

[Paul D]

Speed as little to do with effort required to sever fibres. That come down to torque which will change with speed changes and actually becomes less torque at higher speeds. Speed only relates to being able to do a cleaner cut while working at a faster pace. I rarely turn spindles below 1400rpm. As a general rule the only time I turn below 1400 is for roughing down square stock, spindles larger than about 4" Dia.or on long slender spindles to cut down on whip. Use your tool properly and there is no increase in danger at higher speeds. Naturaly enough if you are doing something that is a little bit 'tricky' or difficult turn at lower speeds. As a metal lathe has a greater selection of speeds (typically 9 -> 15 speeds) than a wood lathe (typically 5 speeds) it would be more useful for larger faceplate work but the bulk of a metal lathe makes access a little more restrictive.

[George]

Speed only relates to being able to do a cleaner

Faster, perhaps. Cleaner, hardly. My carving gouges make exceptional cuts at zero RPM. Ol' Roy demonstrates the proper cuts by rotating by hand as well.

Use your tool properly and there is no increase in danger at

Newton disagrees. Potential energy of a departing fragment or the piece itself is proportional to the square of velocity. If it never happens, dandy, but use your tool properly and you don't need to take the risk.

[Paul D]

That should have read "clean cut at faster pace"