have a 4x4 post that i want to drill a straight hole into the top of, however the post is longer than the drill press is tall. The base of the drill stand is what gets in the way if I put the press on a bench or something. Anyone have a good work around to this?
Doesn't your drill press have a swivel head?
If it's still too long for the swivel head, and drilling by hand isn't accurate enough, you can make a plunge router sub-base with 2x4 blocks screwed to it, and the blocks can be clamped to the post. Then plunge the router (with appropriate plunge-cutting bit, or pre-drilled by hand with a smaller diam drill bit) as far as it will go into the end of the post. If this router hole isn't deep enough, it should serve as a fairly effective guide for drilling deeper with a forstner bit. I recently faced the same situation while drilling 3/4" holes into the end of 82" long bed rails, and this router jig worked well for me. I'll attempt a little ASCII art diagram, but feel free to let me know if you'd like a photo or a better description. The { U } represents your router base with a round-nose router bit, ## is your workpiece.
___{__U__}____ [_]#####[_] ##### ##### #####
(here's another try started with a monospace font, and the "bit" plunged into the workpiece) ___{__U__}____ [_]##U##[_] ##### ##### #####
Hope this helps, Andy
How about a simple drilling jig?
Drill a guide hole in 2 X 4 X 4 the diameter of the shaft of a spade bit required to drill the post hole. Put sides on the 4X4 jig to hold the jig. Place spade bit through the guide hole, clamp jig to 4X4, attached spade bit to hand drill and bore away.
Short of digging a hole under the drill press, use a ship's auger and the jig shown in Fred Bingham's book.
Lew
On lots of drill presses, the head is retained only by a set screw or clamp bolt or 2. If you loosen or remove it you may be able to swing the head around so it is not over the base. Likewise, you may be able to loosen the base from the column and swing it at that point also.
This is one of the reasons I didn't get rid of my old Shopsmith. Set it up as a horizontal boring machine, and bore away. Other functions, I use it for are, wood lathe, and scroll saw. The 8" table saw function isn't quite as good as my old Unisaw!! For the occasional use, it's worth keeping around.
I usually use the drill press to drill a perfect hole in a scrap block several inches thick. Next, I use the block to guide the bit until it's established in the post. To finish up, I drill the established hole to the correct depth without the guide block.
This is also a great way to make "production" depth stops.
Assuming you have a bench DP... - Clamp / screw the base to your workbench. The DP should be facing away from you. - Loosen the set screw(s) that hold the head on the pipe. - Turn the head 180 degrees & tighten the screws. - Drill your hole.
-- Mark
I hope that 's a carbide Forstner. Turning the speed up on steel Forstners, especially carbon steel, is a good way to ruin the bit.
If it's cutting slowly odds are that it's dull.
Also, in deep holes Forstners aren't self-clearing--you have to pull them out and clear the hole occasionally.
If it's a deep hole you might want to start with a 3/4" auger or twist drill and the finish with the Forstner.
I dont think it's carbide. I think its just carbon steel. Should those be run slower? the bit was new but i probably have dulled it..?
J. Clarke wrote:
they often aren't too sharp from the factory. sharpening is part of owning them... time to learn something new....
There should be a speed chart provided with the bits. If not, here's a conservative one that also has sharpening procedures <
If it's carbon steel then be very careful with the speed--they can be overheated easily--if the metal has turned blue then the bit is ruined, just like a chisel that has been ground too aggressively.
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