Do You Label Your Cribbage Boards?

Okay, great. No reason for the scoring surface to be any higher than necessary. Good project! : )

I hear what you are saying.

I haven't installed the brass pivot rod yet. I'm going to experiment with the tightness and see if is possible to make the board easily removable. The earth magnet should hold the top on securely when it's lined up and the pivot rod is in its hole. Maybe bevel the hole on the underside of the board to make it easier to reinsert after the game.

...and a run for 10.

Great idea! If the top half of the sandwich is levitating, it could cut down on shipping costs! ;-)

I'd bet he keeps the box. I was thinking about this after I sent the last post. Without the box, the swing base is going to make a mess of the cards. Oops.

You coulda used Purple Heart. ;-) BTW, I love Purple Heart but can't think of a place I'd use it.

That would be a nice touch, if there's space. Since you intend for the base and board to separate, you might think about a pivot rod and brass tubing to sized to fit as a bushing.

If you want to line the "peg pocket", there's an old craft trick that should work pretty neat for a formfitting liner.

Don't buy the adhesive backed felt, just grab a little piece of whatever color you want, get a couple coats of finish on the base and THEN, rough cut the felt to size and wet it. Press it into the pocket and smooth it out in the corners, etc. Once it dries, it will be formed to the pocket. Carefully remove it and take some white Elmer's glue (though I suppose TiteBond would work equally well. With your finger paint the inside of the pocket and then carefully put the the felt back in and press it in place. When the glue dries, trim the top edge with a brand new single edged razor blade. It will look like a perfect fit/finish because it will be. ;-)

Thanks. I'll consider that.

I never made a cribbage board, but I've played a lot of cribbage. I like some sort of skunk line, double skunk line, and five point deliniation of sort, but numbers are certainly not needed. There should be a game count scoring area for a full set of games, and three holes for each color/style pins to rest before any scoring begins.

I always like the 29 shaped boards as well hangers or shelf pieces, but a simple rectangular full travel board is much preferred for playing. It makes a nice table divider and allows the dealer to place the stack on his side to keep track of who's deal it is. For a fold up travel board the twice around is ok, but really how many of us are packing everything we own in the saddle bag of our horse anymore?

I just completed the woodworking part of this cribbage board. The base is made from Padauk, the top is Maple with some nice figuring. It's a surprise for my adult son.

I've seen boards that are labeled with numbers every 5 peg holes plus Start, Finish, etc. Some have just Start, Finish and an S after hole 90, some have no labeling at all.

I don't know if I want to label this one or not. I'm leaning towards buying the dry-rub lettering and letting my son decide - and do it ;-) - after I ship it to him. (Since it's a surprise, I don't know if wants any labels.)

For those that have made Cribbage boards, do you label them?

The board I made has everything you mentioned except for the skunk lines.

Here's the final outcome.

The rare earth magnet holds really well. As you spin the board into the closed position, it gets about an inch from closed and just snaps into place. Pretty cool!

Hopefully my son and I will break it in when he arrives on Wednesday.

Sorry about the previous post. One of the image links was incorrect.

Here are the 2 correct ones:

Or flocking 8^)

-BR

that is a great idea as those tapered pegs are annoying especially for anyone with impairments

have not ever seen a board with straight pegs and holes and definitely not one with brass inserts

can feel an inspiration coming on

have seen the brass tubing at the hardware store