I have some 2 inch square pieces of hard maple into which I'm cutting
1/2 inch wide by 2 inch long through mortises. These pieces make up a base for a workbench top. For added strength I'm planning to wedge the tenons, which is something I've heard about but never done.My understanding is that I need to taper the mortise so that it is wider on the "outside" side of the stock -- something like 1/8 inch wider per inch of thickness, so that's 1/4 inch wider for my 2 inch stock. Therefore the "inside" length of my mortise will be 2 inches while the "outside" length of it will be 2+1/2 (1/4 wider on both sides). Then I can either: a) drive my wedges between the inside of the mortise and the outside of the tenon (on both sides), sort of squeezing the tenon; or b) cut two kerfs into the tenon and drive the wedges into these kerfs.
My understanding is that driving the wedgies into the kerfs produces better results because the tenon actually "bends" outward so that the wedged end is larger than the "inside" end ... locking the tenon in place much like a dovetail joint. BUT ... you have to do this without splitting the tenon when you drive the wedge in.
Questions about all this (keeping in mind that my tenons will be 1/2 inch wide by 2 inch long by 2 inch deep):
- How far from each side of the tenon woud you make the kerf? 1/8 inch or so?
- How LONG would you make the kerf? 2/3 the length of the tenon, or about 1+1/3 inch in my case?
- What do you think about this guideline of "1/8 inch for every inch of mortise depth" for the question of how much to enlarge the mortise on the "far" side? It sounds fine in theory, if my kerf is 1+1/3 inch long I just don't see how I can push the end of it it 1/4 inch sideways without splitting it?
If anyone has experience -- good OR bad! -- making these joints, I'd sure appreciate hearing your story. I realize that different wood will have different characteristics, but I might still find your experience helpful even if the wood is different.
Thanks in advance. Adam