It may be, but generally urea resin glue is used for veneer glue up
because it allows adjustment and it doesn't creep. I'm no expert on
veneering, thats for sure, but my experience in wood work is veneering a
desk top with 1/32 resawn homemade veneer is not something to be
approached lightly. I can imagine edge gluing 5' lengths of 1/32" resawn
lumber and then getting them oriented correctly and stuck on a homemade
torsion box with contact cement. I've never done it mind you, but I
would think the odds of me getting it right are small, and if I did, the
odds of the seams staying tight even smaller. Also, cauls are not good,
you generally would want a vacuum press for something like this. All
good reasons to go out and by a sheet of plywood, or spend the cash and
get some nice solid wood. Just edge gluing thick solid wood, one of the
easiest things for a woodworker to do, seems to generate a hell of a lot
of discussion here. Veneering is almost another discipline apart from
general woodwork. At least he should start smaller, like a jewelry box
or something... Besides just trying to get biscuits into the edge of a
1/32" hunk of oak veneer would be a real bitch:-)
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I've tossed out the torsion box idea and have decided to "reveneer" some
decent 1/2" plywood. The primary reason that I will not use 3/4" plywood is
the paper-thin veneer. When I glue on a 1"x3" perimeter board I can expect
my alignment to be +/- 1/64". That's fine for a solid wood top. I can
scrape/sand/plane that level. But up against a paper-thin commercial plywood
veneer, I fear that bad things would happen when trying to level the top.
I have the wood to do a solid top but I don't think it would stay flat.
Normally a 36" wide solid table top is not really a big deal because you
have an apron to control and aggregate movement. Unfortunately, this top
needs to be separate, so the rest of the desk can't help keep things stable.
As far as the glue is concerned... I'll try some experiments next week and
post the results.
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