Would you believe my Delta Rockwell 8" long bed 37-315 220V Jointer run in reverse direction after complete rebuilt (no painting)?
Took me more than a year on and off, waiting for parts or encounter problems. I am not an electrician. Replaced switch enclosure but retains original Rockwell Delta?s switch. All electrical cable from a power source to motor is new.
Need help can't wait to make saw dusts. Where to start checking? I know switching wires will not reverse direction, but did try anyway. Most likely mixed up wire's connections in switch or motor (marked wires before replaced).
I think its time for me to explain about 240 current and why it is so different from 120 volt service. First of all, it's twice as big. Secondly, it'll shock you more. Outside of that, 240 is really two
120 volt lines coming to your house from different parts of the globe. The up and down 120 comes from the northern hemisphere, and the down and up version comes from below the equator.
Without trying to get technical, it all boils down to the direction water flows when it goes down the drain. In the top of the earth, it goes clockwise, while on the bottom of the earth it goes counter clockwise. Since most electricity is made from hydro dams, the clockwise flow gives you an up and down sine wave, while the counterclockwise version gives you a down and up sine wave. Between the two, you have 240 volts, while either individual side only gives you 120 volts.
This is particularly important to know when buying power tools -- which side of the globe did they come from? If you get an Australian saw, for instance, it will turn backwards if connected to a US generated 120 volt source. Sure, you can buy backwards blades for it, but that is an unnecessary burden. Other appliances, like toasters cannot be converted from Australian electricity to American electricity. I knew one person who bought an Australian toaster by mistake and it froze the slices of bread she put in it.
If you wire your shop with 240 and accidentally get two US-generated
120 volt lines run in by accident, you can get 240 by using a trick I learned from an old electrician. Just put each source into its own fuse box and then turn one of the boxes upside down. That'll invert one of the two up and down sine waves to down and up, giving you 240. DO NOT just turn the box sideways, since that'll give you 165 volts and you'll be limited to just using Canadian tools with it.
Switching the wires will switch direction. There are 2 tabs in the motor.
I don't know your specific motor, but you have the wrong connection. Generally a wire from the motor switches from one tab to another, and your wire goes from one to another.
Look up your wiring diagram on the internet, or if you have the manual better. You are connected wrong.
Damn, they should have taught is that in school. Thanks for the great explanation. Now I have a better understanding of why my computer files get lost in the electronic maze. I now will turn my monitor upside down when saving them.
There _should_ be a table on/inside the leads access cover or stamped on nameplate or the like...
If still cornfoozed, post link to a picture of the aforementioned diagram and the lead area and likely someone can guide...or take it to a local motor shop and get them to straighten it out for you...
On Wed, 04 Jun 2014 00:06:28 -0700, WD wrote: Replace the start capacitor. Take the old one up to Grainger's and they can match up a new one. Of course, if you changed something in the motor wiring, then you will need to put things back as they should be. If this is a three phase machine, swap 2 phases. Good luck,
Gordon Shumway posted that back in 7-1-10, in a thread discussing some electrical issues. I tried to copy & paste it, to here, and the credit or quote marks, >, didn't transfer, except for the one by Gordon's name.
Most likely mixed up wiring in the starter switch from the motor. Yesterday after over a year, solved throat block bar?s problem and set the knives. I also replace a longer power cord before testing the planer. The planer wired single phase 220V, 1-1/2HP. Bought it in Nov. 2012. Could have mixed up the wiring (bad memory, rewired 3 times).
Does anyone have links to websites for me to rewire - from motor to starter switch and power plug? The starter switch is original ?Rockwell?. Thanks for everyone comments. :-)
There any number showing a starter wiring, but it isn't where there's going to be a problem regarding direction--that's at the motor leads. Of course, it's likely it's a dual-voltage motor so as well as reversing direction they're the connections to which winding taps are the internal for 240V operation as opposed to 120V.
Are you _sure_ there are no markings on the motor? That's most unusual...
It's unusual alright. Start the projects over a year ago. Will take the motor out later today and check the motor - long forgotten.
Hopefully suggestions or advices here will help resolve the problem. I'm not an electrician and don't want to hurt myself or damage the jointer. I'm in Central Valley, CA difficult and expensive to find an electrician. The electrician that installed the subpanel and 220V no longer answer my phone call.
Forgotten to add, like to rewire again from motor to start switch and cable to power point. I'll know more after removing the motor from the jointer. I'm not young slow and take my time. Thanks. :-)
Took the motor out and it's "Rockwell" motor. Dual voltage 220 and 110V. My old marking still there when I replaced the cords last year.
Somehow must have got wiring mixed up, motor to starter switch. Do you have pictures or wiring diagram connection on "Rockwell" starter switch and post it to alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking?
Don't need/want an electrician; there's bound to be motor repair shops--one of them is where you want to take it if can't find the data.
Again, w/o the specific motor nameplate data (mfr, model, s/n) to look up all there is is a generic wiring diagram of how dual-voltage, reversible motors work; the details of which terminal is which are dependent upon the specific motor so there is no generic answer other than the previous "put it back the way it was" :) -- which, of course, is of no help if no longer know how that was.
But all the switch/starter does is interrupt the line between it and the motor; it doesn't control the direction (w/ the exception of _very_ old and rare to find and wouldn't have been on a jointer anyway reversing starters that were occasionally found on such things as spindle shapers altho even there since the 50s or 60s a reversing switch would be more common in conjunction w/ a conventional start/stop).
Now, on the assumption that the motor is recent-enough to have a conventional set of terminal numbering, the procedure is to swap leads to the terminals T5 and either T6 or T8. If it is a dual-voltage motor as I would presume, then T6 and T7 will be jumpered together to connect the two internal start windings in series for the high voltage operation so T8 will be swapped for T5 leaving T6/T7 jumpered.
If the numbering system isn't consistent with that, then you probably need the motor shop or a buddy. I looked at an old manual at the owwm.org site; it has no info on the motor itself in it, unfortunately.
On Wed, 04 Jun 2014 00:06:28 -0700, WD wrote: Did you change anything inside the peckerhead (the little connection box attached to the motor)? It is possible to make it run in reverse if you swapped the start winding with one of the run windings. There should be a connection diagram under the peckerhead cover.
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