Delta 3 ohase table saw value?

Howdy,

Some time ago I bought a large Delta table saw on the mistaken assumption that I could get 3 phase electricity for it at an affordable price.

I don't know enough about table saws to assess its condition. But let's assume it's "fair".

What's certain is that it's taking more room than I can afford to give it. Therefore I'd like to sell it at the highest price that is still a bargain for the buyer.

If any of y'all would be kind enough to share your knowledge I'll definitely appreciate it. The saw is in Texas. It's been stored inside but the table top is rusty. I don't have a model number or any details but could easily get these.

Even a ballpark "high - low" value would be helpful.

Thanks, Vernon

Reply to
vtuck
Loading thread data ...

snipped-for-privacy@tucklings.com wrote in news:1150604098.444476.239690 @r2g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:

Where in Texas?

Texas is kinda big.

Reply to
R. Pierce Butler

If you need a table saw, why not swap the motor out with a single-phase model? I did it with a Delta jointer.

todd

Reply to
todd

Or put a $200 VFD on the 3ph motor and feed it with 240V 1ph. You'll get the added benefits of soft start and variable speed as well which might be particularly nice if you use molding heads and want to slow it down a bit. Of course if you let it get rusty you've got a bit of a project reconditioning it first.

Pete C.

Reply to
Pete C.

Thanks to everybody for your responses.

We live > snipped-for-privacy@tucklings.com wrote in news:1150604098.444476.239690

Reply to
vtuck

Todd,

It did cross my m> > Some time ago I bought a large Delta table saw on the mistaken

Reply to
vtuck

Pete,

I'm not sure what a VFD is. Is that a phase c> todd wrote:

Reply to
vtuck

Just buy a single phase motor that has the same horsepower rating. Then you would need to get a single phase switch. You buy these things at the same place.

The motor just bolts to the saw. Surely you can figure out how to take one off and bolt the other one back in the same place.

Jim

Reply to
Jim

Hmmm . . . I kept my three-phase when I upgraded the electrical at my house . Uh, how much you say?

Reply to
New Wave Dave

Others may disagree, I'd offer $600-650 for a Unisaw in "fair" shape with a slightly rusty top. A little less if the top is really rusty- a little more if it is in top running form.

It's worth your while to keep it and fix it up, though. Soon as you get rid of it, you'll find a use for it.

Reply to
Prometheus

For comparison I bought a 30 year old Powermatic Model 66 two years ago in fair condition. Somewhat rusty table with definite signs of use. Original cast iron fence, no miter gauge, but it included the original motor cover and a 3 ph 3 HP motor. Cleaned it up, replaced the triple belts with power twist link belts and built my own rotary converter. I paid $240 for the saw. I did have to pick it up and move it myself.

snipped-for-privacy@tuckl> Howdy,

Reply to
PCProffitt

Jim,

In this case, although the motor "just bolts to the saw", it does so by means of mounts that are welded to the motor frame. Since the angle of tilt indexes to an indicator, I judge that even if I were to custom fab the ear tabs and weld 'em to the replacement motor, it would be a precision alignment/welding job. Although I'm a fair hobbyist welder it would appear that a single phase conversion would be a significant undertaking.

I don't remember the HP rating of this motor but it is the size of a small watermelon. I have a hard time imagining what kind of single phase motor would be a suitable replacement.

On the other hand, if any of y'all have "been there and done that" I'd love to hear your tale of glee (or woe).

I'm not a hardcore wood person. But I love quality tools and I'd love to keep the saw if I can make it do something useful. Let's say something wild. Like cutting wood!

Finally, to shift gears a minute... How DO you refurbish a rusty table top?

Vern> > It did cross my mind to swap out the motor. However, the current motor

Reply to
vtuck

Replacement motors for the Unisaw are available with the mount already attached. 3HP ones are readily availble on ebay for under $300.

Mark (sixoneeight) = 618

Reply to
Markem

Wow!

So somebody has ALREADY re-invented the wheel?

Thanks!

VT

Markem six> On 18 Jun 2006 09:51:07 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@tucklings.com wrote: >

Reply to
vtuck

When I replaced the 3-phase motor in my jointer with a single phase, it cost me about $140. Since that was the only 3-phase equipment I had, it made sense for me to just swap the motor. For your case, I'd take the $300 and put it toward a rotary phase converter.

todd

Reply to
todd

Since we do not know the model, it's pretty hard to know "exactly" what you have...

This will fix your problem on "OLDER" Unisaws.

formatting link
Howdy,

Reply to
Pat Barber

What do you mean by "large"? Unisaw (ten inch tilting arbor), or larger than that (RT40)? Value is considerably different.

Does it have a fence system? what kind? Impacts the value somewhat?

Before you take any suggestions about replacing the motor, you need to have the specific model and if a Unisaw, whether it is a right tilt or left tilt. Motors are different. And you may have to buy a motor starter if you're LVC is not convertible in a cost effective manner. GPE (best choice) or one of the knock offs, will add $ to the motor phase conversion.

Frank

Reply to
Frank Boettcher

Frank and everybody,

I had to travel to Mexico City unexpectedly due to the death of a dear old friend.

Now that I'm back, I want to thank you all for your posts, and especially for the ebay links to replacement motors.

Since I last posted I took the saw over to our farm. I buttered the top down with motor oil to retard further rusting.

As a result of your responses I'm much more razzed and upbeat about the saw. But I'm also aware that I have a lot to learn about it.

Here's the little I know up to now:

It has a 1.5 (one point five) HP 3 phase motor, rated at 1725 rpm. There is an oval cut-out in the pedestal side that allows the motor to tilt 45 degrees in either direction without the motor end contacting the pedestal.

A review of some of the ebay ads for replacement motors has made it apparent that most replacement motors are rated at over 3,000 RPM. Some of them are 3 HP or higher.

I also saw a reference to potential problems with some replacement motors not clearing the pedestal side.

One poster inquired about the fence system. Regrettably, I'm too ignorant of saws to know the answer. There are some rectangular slots in the table. The saw has an accessory that fits down into one of these grooves that has an adjustable protractor like device on it. I think there is also a rip fence. The reason for my uncertainty is that I think I have some accessories stored elsewhere. I need to dig these out and get a clue.

I am remodeling a little house for conversion to a commercial purpose. This saw would be a valuable addition to my resources.

Therefore, I will genu> On 17 Jun 2006 21:14:58 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@tucklings.com wrote: >

Reply to
vtuck

The standard output RPM for a Unisaw is 3450. Has been for many years. If your saw is operating with a 1725 ouput then the motor pulley is not standard. Or the blade surface speed is wrong. I don't think you can find a 1725 single phase motor with Unisaw mount brackets in this day and age.

Maybe it is not a Unisaw. You should post links to pictures which would be more helpful.

If you're actually planning to use the saw when you get it running and you know as little as you say, I would suggest you get some basic training in the safe and proper use before you strike out in that direction.

Reply to
Frank Boettcher

Howdy Frank,

Thank you for taking the time to write. Actually, I'm not a complete rube. I am just not a hard-core woodworker. I actually took a shop course in college back before they invented electricity.

Your point about "is it a unisaw" was quite interesting. All I know is it's a Delta and that it's a big old machine. I will strive to take some pictures in the near future and post 'em to my web page. Then, hopefully, y'all will be kind enough to help me kick the project along.

Regards, Vern> On 22 Jun 2006 14:26:48 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@tucklings.com wrote: >

Reply to
vtuck

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.