Photo posted of deglossing test: http://www.windinthetrees.com/table /
Test deglossing of six rag-wiped coats of Waterlox on a white oak table
leaf: Used gray "scotch-brite"-type pad by itself (no wax) on half
closest to camera. Tried a white pad first and as had been predictied by
netizens, its impact was amost unnoticable.
I'm not a big fan of the high shine on the untouched portion on the back
half of the leaf, but I'm a bit suprised at my feeling that the
deglossed portion seems "dead". Having spent the last three weeks seeing
the shine, I'm going to wait a day or two to see if I get used to the
deglossed look before continuing.
Perhaps the suggestions to finish up with waxing need to be
Advice, suggestions and critiques welcome -- email or leave 'em in the
I try to wait a week if I can in 70+ degree environment before rubbing
out a Waterlox finish. I have tried the white Scotch-Brite, but go
back to 0000 Steel Wool and wax as it seems to give a more uniform and
softer glow. Have had the best luck with Arborwax, but have used
everything from Briwax to Trewax. Buff a little after the wax/steel
wool and you will have a very fine finish that never fails to get
questions about "how did you get such a nice finish".
I have also used this technique with polyurethane as the base varnish,
to rescue a piece from the dreaded plastic coated look and feel
firstname.lastname@example.org (Ladd Morse) wrote in message
Received an email from the folks at Waterlox and they said I could
expect the finish to be fully cured in 3-5 days. So your advice is
pretty close. And either time frame is much quicker than the month I had
As the table will be used in the kitchen, the protection purportedly
offered by Waterlox was one of the major reasons for selecting that
particular finish. Putting wax on top of this finish seems to be
reducing the "little-to-no-care" and "protection from water and other
common kitchen chemicals" aspects.
However, if it turns out that the look presented by waxing the table is
really what I wanted from the beginning and didn't know it until now,
I'm guessing I should have gone with an oil finish to begin with.
Reading older messages in this newsgroup via Google, I recall clearly
one poster saying that it would be best to use Scotch-Brite instead of
steel wool, as the tanins in the oak, even covered with multiple coats
of finish, would eventually react with whatever small bits of steel wool
are left behind and cause discoloration. Sounded good to me, so I
purchased both white and gray pads.
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