Curved Rafters

As someone once said, Baltimore ain't in Maryland.

I'd be amazed if they sold rafters 7ft arc length on a 9ft 6" radius. I can get off the shelf 8ft radius in the uk. They are about $100 a pop in your money.

Steve

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Steve
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Here's a quick way to figure springback for a lamination: springback = original_deflection / (number_of_laminations)^2

This is actually derived for a cantilever beam, so it's only an approximation for a radial bend.

Robert

Steve wrote:

Reply to
rmcanany

Here's a quick way to figure springback for a lamination: springback = original_deflection / (number_of_laminations)^2

This is actually derived for a cantilever beam, so it's only an approximation for a radial bend.

Robert

Steve wrote:

Reply to
rmcanany

Marine ply is not made from rot-rsistant wood though the glue is _supposed_ to have a mildew retardant additive.

Even if you can find Mahogany-faced marine plywood chances are good that the inner veneers are poplar.

The most popular marine plywoods are Okoume, Sapele, and Doug Fir. The latter is probably more rot-restant than the other two.

Reply to
fredfighter

I live not far from Balmore and have NEVER seen rafters curved with a 10 foot radius in any section at any Home Depot.

Reply to
fredfighter

Odds are, you've already done this, but I did this exact thing last week, and just happened to spot the thread today. The contractor I now work for does very high-end historical remodeling/renovation, and we had to fabricate a new roof for a garage extension to match the existing structure- which in this case meant curved rafters with a curved hip. To get it in, we got a bunch of 2" x 12" douglas fir, and cut the rafters to shape with a bandsaw on-site. The first rafter was rough sawn and then shaped with a rasp until it fit the curve of the existing soffit perfectly, and then the subsequent rafters were cut and then attached to the first (master) rafter with a C-clamp and sanded to match the master with a belt sander. To get the hip, we rough cut a hip rafter, tacked it into place, and then ran a string line across the regular rafters every 4" to get reference marks to use for plotting the extended curve.

Looks really nice, and it may or may not help you, depending on how quickly you've gone after this project. FWIW, there was no springback involved, as the new roof was sheathed with 1" x 4" cedar planks rather than plywood to match the original construction.

Reply to
Prometheus

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