If it is rosewood, I would think the best would be to use lacquer
thinner for a wipe down, then epoxy.
As for Gorilla glue, I finally gave up on that stuff. It stuck when
and where I didn't want it to, and didn't when I did. I has some
success with it, but a lot more questionable repairs in the end.
If you truly want to repair a cracked piece like this, there is only
one good solution.
Laminating epoxy, slow hardener, and micro-balloons.
Mix to the consistency of mayo, slather on all the raw surfaces with a
popcicle stick, position and lightly clamp.
At a minimum, let cure for 48-72 hours, remove clamps, clean up excess
and let cure another week before putting in service.
A little tip: Coat all exterior surfaces where you don't want the
epoxy to stick with candle wax.
As far a Gorilla glue is concerned, it's the most overpriced under
peckered adhesive on the planet, IMHO.
A total waste of time and money.
BTW, wait till the temps are at least 65F.
Very close to what I've been doing with great success.
The local hobby store sells thin wall brass tubing that fits the
handle hole perfectly. I cut a piece of tubing to fit the length of
the handle, insert tubing into one part of the handle, apply epoxy
(Industrial Formulator G2, no lacquer thinner wipe), clamp and leave
for a day or two.
I find the tubing helps line things up and keep them there. It can be
left in (glued in) to help stop the handle from creeping at the seam,
just make sure it's not to long and interferes with the nut that goes
on the top.
This is extremely common due to the cross-grain nature of
totes, the brittleness of rosewood and the way the tote is
anchored to the bed by a rod clamping it accross the grain.
Changes in humidity cause the wood to expand and contract
accross the grain while the rod does not. Over tightening
the tote screw under dry conditions will cause the tote to
crack when the humidity rises. Under tightening it when
humid may cause it to loosen and wobble when dry,
making it subject to cracking due to bending t in use.
Of course they also get dropped and have things dropped
The epoxy repair described by others is the norm.
Some folks have suggested using bellevelle springs
(conical circular springs resembling washers) under
barrel nut to absorb some of the movement. I don't
know how that has worked out for them. Let me
know if it works...
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.