I was able to set a few years ago but I had to clamp up tight to get
them in place with a hammer. Results were ok doing this. I think
getting them in cleanly and tight is an acquired skill.
There are better alternatives for a lot of applications such as pocket
screws, biscuits. Depending on your application, pocket screws go in
in a fraction the time it took me to mess with the corrugated things.
There are two ways I know to drive corrugated fasteners. If you need
to drive a lot of them both Senco and Paslode make pneumatic nailers
to insert them rather easily. You will need to drive a lot of them to
justify the cost of the tool.
There also is a small and inexpensive tool (possibly made by Stanley
or General). It is an aluminum rectangle about one and a half inches
deep, in which you insert the fastener and a separate blade which fits
behind the fastener. You hand hold the assembly and use a hammer to
drive the blade.
At best, they are easy and cheap to use but tend to crush the wood
fibers. Good application is assembling orange crates.
There is a dedicated tool for the job. The driver resembles thick,
piece of metal with a cutout in the shape of the corrugated fastener
inside of which is captured a a floating anvil. You put the
unit over the fastener and strike the anvil on center. If you can't
find one, keep calm. Cut an accommodating slit in a wood block to
support the fastener. Once you carefully seat
the fasteners to level by light, alternating taps on each
end, a piece of metal centered on top helps to sink them
if you don't have the tool. This can be done freehand as well
with an admixture of a little patience and practice. Nonetheless,
if your target is some fiendishly hard wood that will rebuff the
fasteners, I'd choose again.
On a tight joint, it and fasteners do a decent job, supplemented
by glue and screws. I made some supports for bench roofs as a
kid with these and other hardware and they stand today.
A sleeping fragment of memory makes me want to say that Stanley
made the tool.
If you do lots, then it is the only way that makes sense, but
corrugated fasteners are schlocky at the best of times. Fast, dirty
and they can cause carnage to coarse materials like oak. The fasteners
come in different depths and are pricey as well.
The worst thing about them is that the process is irreversible.
Undoing a joint like that is really, really messy. (New part)
I used them to add a small length to a PB substrate for a laid up
laminate job, supporting the seam with a serious slab as the fastener
kicks like a mule.
Used to use these to put silkscreen frames together. Lousy
results even with the proper slotted aluminum thingy with the
floating anvil device. Switched to lap or finger joints, nails, and
Still have 3/4 of a 30 year old box of corrugated nails left over.
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