Exactly. A certain percentage of any electronic component will suffer
"infant mortality" (google "bathtub curve" for more information on the
statistical pattern) but with an LED array the failure of a few
individual LEDs doesn't have any significant effect on function.
They've been GREAT here in CT. I'd say we've had them for at least 7-8
years. Did NC pick a crappy supplier?
Also, almost all new aircraft lighting is LED. We replaced our tail
"bubble gum machine" last year with an LED strobe. It wasn't cheap, but
the performance is terrific.
We just did a major remodel on our house, garage door openers too. He
asked if we had any lamps, he'd put em in while he was up there. Handed him
a CFL, he said these were great for places with vibration. Much better then
Basic problem with a CFL is that it requires "warm up" time which
makes it a poor choice for fast response On-Off application like
garage door operators.
Better to use a "Rough Service" incandescent lamp.
To qualify as a "rough service" lamp, increase the filament voltage by
say 10% which is exactly what a traffic signal lamp is.(130V vs 120V)
Available at any decent electrical distributor.
Different ones behave differently in this regard. I have some CFLs that
take a minute to come up to full brightness, and others that come up to
near-full-brightness in about a second.
Interestingly, the more expensive ones weren't always better.
A couple of problems with a florescent is that they do flicker and they
can at a quick glance make certain tools appear to not be turning. If you
think your saw blade is not turning you might have an accident. This may be
more of a problem with a VS DP or Lathe and if you cannot hear the machine
running. Have you ever noticed how a drill chuck seems to spin backwards
stop and go forward as you raise and lower the speed when using florescent
lighting? As the speed of the chuck goes into and out of phase with the
cycles of the lamp the chuck can appear to be turning at a different speed
Another problem is many are very slow to come up to full brightness, cold
makes this situation worse. I currently have 6 florescent flood lights in
my home and all take up to 20 - 40 seconds to put out any usable light and
they are comparable to a 65 watt spot.
CFLS? I thought the flicker frequency was in kHz range, undetectable.
Takes my eyes at least that long to focus, so no problem.
Note that the Lexan-encased PAR floods with the CFL tubes
inside offer a solution to the leakage of the trace of mercury
should the tube break.
In many cases it is undetectable but as a bulb begins to go bad and or the
ballast goes bad the flicker can be more evident. I was at a friends house
a few months ago and and the 24" florescent fixture on the ceiling in the
laundry room made you feel like you were in a Disco, it was nauseating.
Additionally the flicker is normally hard to see until you compare it to
something turning slightly out of phase with the kHz. I have some
"dimmable" floresent spot lights in track lighting and when they begin to go
bad they put on a light show.
Good to know, is that for all brands or a particular brand?
The distribution of the light may not be as good with the CFLs in the
porcelain fixtures. With the 4' or 8' fluorescent tubes the light is
very well distributed. Last winter I put in about 40 4' 2 bulb
fluorescent lights into the basement. Each fixture is about a foot or
so from the next in a row with about 6 feet between rows. Used the
cheap bulbs because I could not justify the 4 times cost for the nice
bulbs. Lots of light everywhere in the basement with no spots much
brighter than others. Very even distribution of light. Maybe wth
very high ceilings the porcelain fixtures with CFLs would have an
opportunity to disperse the light well enough. Or you could have
bright spots and dark spots in the room.
On Sat, 09 Aug 2008 14:10:49 +0300, Rick Samuel wrote:
Be careful with the term "full spectrum". It is a misleading marketing
term used to advertise many bulbs that are far short of better light.
Technically, CRI (Color Rendering Index) is the accuracy with which a
light matches it's reference, usually daylight. No bulb less than 90
should be called "full spectrum", although many are. (A quick search
finds numerous examples with CRI of 75!)
In short: use bulbs >95 CRI and temperature 5,000-5,5000K for the fullest
and most accurate range of light in the same band as daylight.
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