My Martha Stewart Hardwood Chopping Block (with four rubber
feet) splits in two after we left it in the rain. Here's how it begins. Over
time, the glues near the edges dry up creating gaps along the edges,
much like pine cones splitting under heat. The chopping block then
begins to show signs of splitting which eventually breaks in half under
a heavy storm.
I drill and insert several wooden dowel pins up and down the block. I
then join both halves together. I use no glue or preserving oil because I
couldn't find any food-grade glues or oils. I can see that it's a matter
of time before it breaks again, but elsewhere. What is a practical way
to keep a chopping block from splitting?
Must be a darn nice chopping block to be worth that much trouble. And what
does breaking in half heavy a heavy storm mean? Well, I will give you the
benefit of the doubt.
I can't imagine why you left it in the rain, but chopping blocks should use
waterproof glue. If it split, it is defective. Take it back. If it is MS,
KMart can hardly doubt you bought it there.
We just left it on a deck of a boat, like most fisherman do. A nasty weather
crumbles it under its own weight. Saw one for $90, I wonder if this one
will last. I will coat it with white mineral oil or EV olive oil.
Aren't chopping blocks water-proof? Aren't they meant for UV-lights, salts,
vibrations or normal fisherman abuses? And you say it isn't suppose break,
even left out on a boat?
Don't soak it. Mineral oil is nice for cutting boards, but I would not
try to "load" it, only a surface coating. Leaving the board in the rain
may have warped the wood to the extent that it will not glue together
again without shaping the sides that should fit together. Wood glue or
contact cement should work. When I clean wood cutting boards, I use a
3M scrubber with hot soapy water, scrub right away, rinse with cool
water and stand it in the sink to dry.
I would not use it if there are gaps between the blocks of wood, as they
can trap food and bacteria.
Chopping blocks were traditionally made with end grain blocks and
held together with an outside frame, no glue being used, i think birch
was the wood of choice. Cleaning was a good scrubbing with salt, no
matter the gaps. What we have now is cheap mass produced items not
deserving to be called chopping blocks. YPFWYG
Well, if you're going to leave it outside in the rain, I'd say go with
something like Thompson's water sealer or a similar product if you want
to keep a natural finish. Otherwise, a good coat of paint will do the
trick. Not sure about using it for food after that, but I probably
wouldn't chop up anything for the dinner table on a board I kept
outside anyway so that wouldn't be an issue from my perspective.
Doubt it is somehow defective as some have mentioned. I would imagine
any piece of wood furniture is going to split and crack if you leave it
outside unprotected from the elements. That kind of use is well
outside the scope of what the manufacturer intended and it seems kind
of unethical to return it as somehow defective.
Titebond II is food safe once cured
Water intrusion is the bane of any glue up. The expansion is stronger
than most any mechanical or adhesive conection can bear. Leave you
dining room table out in the rain and see what happens.
You need to keep it oiled with mineral oil. If you can't find it at a
culinary shop then the pharmacy should have it, it's a wonderful stool
softner and isn't bad over ice cream ;^)
You can disenfect your cutting board with a warm water and vinegar
First you need to glue it. Aliphatic glue will be fine. Don't worry
about the food issue.
What do you think it was glued with to begin with?
Next the glue isn't drying near the edges, the wood is shrinking at the
edges faster than the center. So it pulls away from each other.
Don't leave it out in the rain.
Blocks are meant for wet, but not soaking use. Doweling it will help,
but glue the dowels.
Use mineral oil to protect the wood all around. The top will wear but
the sides will appreciate it. A single coating will do.
BTW someone mentioned that the blocks were originally made with frames.
Maybe some, but some of the professional versions I had seen 30 and 40
years ago where just big solid chunks of end grain glued together. No
frames.. Would love to have one of those monsters today...
Tim Zimmerman wrote:
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.