It's about 40 bucks US a sheet for 3/4". Has anybody used any of this? It doesn't appear to be oak core. I'm a bit fearful of it because I used some Chinese plywood (not oak, not sure what it was) on a job last year and when the finish (latex paint) went on the veneer got quite a few bubbles in it (i.e. came delaminated in places) I'll probably go ahead and pay the higher price for the stuff I know is good just wondered what you'all think.
Kevin
I do not know of any Oak plywood that has an Oak core but I have used this plywood and other than the grain pattern not being great I had no problems with it. FWIW I have had expensive plywood delaminate before also or should I say that it was not laminated properly to start with as it separated as soon as I cut it.
YMMV, but all said and done, the HD close to me has decent plywood on occasion ... I've paid more elsewhere for not a whole lot better quality, but it can be hit or miss.
I agree with Leon ... I've used quite a bit of this stuff in the last few years, particularly for backs and sides that don't show, and have had very few problems.
There may be voids in some shipments, and you often find a lack of consistency in both thickness and weight from load to load, so you might want to try to get all you need from the same stack/store when you do find a good shipment.
Swingman,
Totally off the subject. I know you have a PM jointer, is it a 6 or 8" er? And how long of a board can you plane flat and/or straighten decently?
Over the years the same thing has happened to me a few times. That kinda thing should be caught by QA/QC... but it doesn't always happen. The distributor would always replace it and add a nice discount on the next order.
I haven't seen the Chinese plywood yet, but I wonder if they're going to be held by the same codes/standards as the North American manufacturers. What are they allowed to use in their adhesives?
I just can't get my head around the whole idea of plywood being shipped from China and retailing for same/less money than our stuff.
That's just nuts.
Leon,
I know you asked Swingman but for what it's worth, I have the 6" Jet w/enclosed base and I have done up to 7' long pieces that I used to make a table top from. Key to success is consistent pressure and speed and "getting into it". Once you start, you'll get a feel of how you're doing. If it feels awkward - then you're probably doing something wrong. It should feel comfortable and you should be able to push the stock thru the blades in a nice - fluid like motion.
Yes, you need to practice first to get the feel so take an old 2x4 and use that. When you feel comfortable doing it - then move on to the good stuff. I'm only 5'4" and if I can hold 5-1/2" wide piece of Ash, 5/4 thick and 7' long down on the infeed and outfeed tables - just about anyone should be able to with practice. I tried using roller stands and they caused more problems than I was willing to deal with. Hold the board firmly down on the infeed side just in front of the knives and feed the stock thru. Hand over hand until about 12" has passed over the knives. Now move the left hand (w/protector) to the outfeed table side and keep the movement going. The right hand keeps light but firm pressure on the stock with the left hand supplying 90% of downward pressure and the right hand supplying the horizontal push. Once the right hand passes over the blades (remember it has only 10% of the downward pressure) and is over the outfeed side - apply pressure. Keep both hands on the outfeed side with sufficient pressure to hold the board flat to the outfeed table going hand-over-hand. You'll soon "get into it" - trust me. Turn on some country and enjoy the day. Harder to describe than actually do it but with practice, you'll see if your pressure and speed is right by the surface you get.
Be sure everything is aligned and blades are sharp. I have done pieces longer than 8' but they were stock for moldings so no great weight and no need for perfection since they were going thru the router anyway. The weight of the stock will determine how difficult it will be to do a long piece.
This may help
Bob S.
6" ... you're certainly welcome to use it if the need arises.
I could be wrong, but I suspect that we've been buying Chinese/Pacific Rim plywood for a lot longer than most realize. And I'm willing to bet that the source of the higher price sheet goods at the "wood boutiques" would make you even more nuts.
I'm in the process of building gear boxes for boy scouts out of the stuff. I've cut 4 sheets into pieces 15 X 30. Of course the thickness is a little shy, but you knew that. I had a couple of places where the oak veneer delaminated for about 1" or so at the cut line. I dealt with it by squirting some glue under the veneer and clamping it back down. Also, there are some pretty noticable stripes of darker colored wood on the face sometimes. It works for gear boxes, but I wouldn't make anything nice out of it.
DonkeyHody "Even an old blind hog finds an acorn every now and then."
Recently my wife sent me to the grocery store with a wad of coupons. One was for some brand name canned (in a jar actually) peaches. So I grab a jar and while I'm trying to figure out whether the dollar off on the high-priced jar is a better deal that the cheaper house brand can, I happen to look at the label and see, "A product of Thailand." I put it back.
And I thought that the main cash crop in Thailand was opium.
Thank you Sir but I too have a 6"er.... jointer that is. I know you have longer in feed and was wondering how long of a board you can comfortable or successfully flatten or straighten.
Robatoy wrote:
I think you're right. I know for a fact that local cabinet shops use the stuff by the pallet. Around here, it is about $12 a sheet cheaper than run of the mill birch/soft maple plywood. I've used some, and it's pretty decent. Built a wood rack out of it earlier in the year. The only thing wrong was the planning--the rack is too small.
I'm another who has difficulty with the pricing and shipping. From what I understand (and I may not understand all that well), we sell them the logs, which are then shipping to China. They process it and return the plywood and come in about 40% under plywood produced only 3000 miles away--or 500.
It makes no sense to me, but my guess is we're looking at some kind of government support of that industry so it can get a foothold worldwide.
Sorry I neglected your question. I rarely go over 4', but, in recollection, have done 75" +/- successfully with the PM 54a (the trestle table in the kitchen comes to mind, which is 72" after trimming the ends).
Can't recall even trying anything longer.
I've done a couple doors, standard 80", on a DJ20. It works, but I wouldn't try it on a smaller machine, and it is better done with an auxiliary tall fence on the DJ20 to help with door width, and once the door starts, you've got pretty fair balance, but have to pay a LOT of attention.
I'm curious why you would use oak plywood for Boy Scout gear boxes? Would not a good AC pine/fir plywood work just as well for less?
I am building some Boy Scout gear boxes too, but they will be baltic birch to save on weight. I am using 3/8" and 1/2" BB plywood for mine. I figured the lack of voids and extra plys in the BB plywood would compensate for the reduced strength of thinner plywood.
Our troop used to have big patrol boxes made out of 3/4" plywood, but a previous Scoutmaster burned them due to them being too darn heavy.
Brian Elfert
Great, Just the answer I was looking for. I have an old Ryobi AP-10 planer that still works but I want a larger faster planer. I do have the need to flatten long boards now and was wondering if I should upgrade my jointer first. I have decent results with 4-5' boards also. Since it looks like it would be "iffy" for 8' boards I think I will pursue the sled to flatten boards with a larger planer.
Thanks for adding to the comments Charles. I was considering the DJ20 but since you have indicated that it may be a bit of a stretch to go 8'+ on boards I think I will put that purchase on hold for a while. Have you seen the posts regarding the FWW article on the sled to flatten boards with a planer? And/or have you done this yourself? I am looking at upgrading to a Delta 22-780 planer.
Brian, You caught me. It's not 3/4 ply as I implied, it's 1/2. The ability of teenage boys to destroy things is amazing. One of the design parameters was that the box had to be plenty strong for the two heaviest scouts to sit on - at the same time. One of them easily tops
250. I used the "good stuff" for the same reasons you mentioned. It's flatter, stronger, machines better, holds screws for hinges better, and doesn't require much sanding.Our previous scoutmaster made some very well-designed patrol boxes that aren't tooo heavy to hold cooking and eating utensils. These boxes I'm working on will hold a camp stove, a lantern, a dining fly and a dutch oven, each in its own compartment. Yes, they are heavy when loaded, but I included enough handles so 4 boys can carry it like a coffin. Or, two of the older ones can carry it. The handles are really just handholds cut into the sides of the box so they don't protrude. All the gear a patrol needs will be in two boxes instead of having them scrambling around gathering gear when we are trying to set up camp in the dark.
DonkeyHody "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from poor judgement."
This is a really good idea. Our troop has to dig out lanterns, stoves, and the like in the dark most of the time.
We may be getting a new trailer and I will recommend we try this with the new trailer.
Brian Elfert
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