Cherry - Finishing, Staining Suggestions

Anyone care to share your finishing suggestions for Cherry? Natural/light and dark/stained finishing techniques?

Reply to
Rumpty
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On Mon, 11 Oct 2004 21:19:51 -0400, "Rumpty" calmly ranted:

Waterlox Original, satin, 4 rubbed coats. Degloss with Liberon

0000 steel wool and Johnson's wax as needed.

Thou shalt not stain cherry, Rumpty. You know that, you heathen bastid. ;> If you want it darker, expose it to a wee bit of sunlight or a UV lamp.

-------------------------------------- PESSIMIST: An optimist with experience --------------------------------------------

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Reply to
Larry Jaques

Sherwin Williams. Roll or brush on depending on the texture desired.

Reply to
Mike Marlow

For lighter finishes, I prefer spraying tinted lacquer or shellac toner coats to avoid blotching. To bring individual boards closer together, I'll use light colored Solar Lux dyes as the first step. A dewaxed shellac barrier coat goes on after the dye, over the whole piece.

For darker finishes, I'll Solar Lux the whole thing with a yellow or pink dye, depending on the original wood color, barrier coat it, and add a Behlen's (or Mohawk) wiping pigment stain, which is again followed by a barrier. These steps should leave the wood lighter than desired. The final color is arrived at with toners.

Practice with samples to get the dye / pigment combos that work for you. It's weird dyeing a piece pink or yellow, but it works out well in the end.

Stay away from medium and dark colored dyes at the beginning to avoid blotching.

Barry

Reply to
Ba r r y

I like Danish oil.

Reply to
Phisherman

bastid. ;> If you want it darker, expose it to a wee bit of sunlight or a UV lamp.

Are you calling my customers bastid's? If MY bastid customer wants a dark stained cherry, that's what they get! Next time you can't pay the mortgage, tell your mortgage company, I DON'T STAIN CHERRY!

LOL, thanks! VBG!

Reply to
Rumpty

On Tue, 12 Oct 2004 07:54:09 -0400, "Rumpty" calmly ranted:

If you need mortgage money (mine's paid off), run a class enlightening the heather bastids about darkening cherry

-without- condemning themselves to an eternity in Hell. $100 a head should cover their "insurance". Can I get an "Amen"?

-------------------------------------- PESSIMIST: An optimist with experience --------------------------------------------

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Reply to
Larry Jaques

I was gonna use Tung Oil on a project I'm doing now. Bad choice? Where does one get WaterLox?

-Jim

Reply to
jim ryan

I generally let the piece stand in the direct sun for several days (rotating frequently) to develop a nice, deep color. My usual finish is then Deft satin lacquer, sprayed on. I put several coats on, sanding all but the last with a green ScotchBrite pad. I like the feel of this product, and it seems to protect the wood quite well.

Walt

Reply to
Walt Novinger

On 12 Oct 2004 12:56:44 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@jimryan.com (jim ryan) calmly ranted:

I got mine at Hine. Oops, no, that's an old LoCal ad.

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is the mfgr, but I got mine from Russ at
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both times I ordered it. Click on Oil & Varnish, then page down a bit.

I'm going to get a gallon of medium sheen and a pouring lid next time, then decant into smaller quart cans.

-------------------------------------- PESSIMIST: An optimist with experience --------------------------------------------

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Reply to
Larry Jaques

They own Minwax, don't they?

Minwax Antique Oil Finish does a great job, easy to use. Of course - your favorite varnish here - and suitable thinner will also do the job.

I like clear looks into the wood, so I don't use satin and don't scuff a surface.

Reply to
George

How does spraying Deft, primarily designed to be applied by brushing, due to it's formulation, work for you? Any reason you don't use a traditional nitro lacquer in lieu of Deft?

David

Walt Nov> Rumpty wrote:

Reply to
David

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