a file and a saw guide......
"Puckdropper" wrote in message
I've seen devices that are supposed to "sharpen" a chain that mount on
the saw and you run the chain through it. Do they actually work? Or are
they like most "sharpeners" out there that take a dull edge and gives you
something that actually cuts (but not well) or reshape the edge like a
One of the biggest problems with end users in chainsaws is that they
overthink the problem. I have a Crapsman chainsaw sharpener that has
more adapter dials than a diamond cutting wheel. It takes ten minutes
to just get the thing mounted, and that is if you are totally aware on
how it works.
Most chains have an indicator groove that show which angle to hold the
file at when filing. Any book will tell you which direction to stroke.
Any book will have instructions on how to file down the nubbins on the
Results: If you have a vise or a stump clamp, you can set up your saw,
and sharpen it very well in about five minutes. It's all about the
angles, and there are only a couple. The devices they sell with motors
take off twice the amount of metal needed to sharpen a saw, and most
people take off more than that, or take it off in the wrong place.
A simple round chainsaw file and a vise or stump clamp is all one needs
to service a saw. What do you see those professional guys carrying
around in their pocket? Not a bunch of contraptions. Just a file, and
maybe a stump clamp. But minimalist gear, and they know how to use it.
Get the right gear, and learn how to use it. Get rid of the automatic
gadgets, and learn how to do it right.
I would vote for Stihl also. I like to purchase 100% gasoline...not anythi
ng with an ounce of ethanol in it. Others have good luck with Stabil or li
ke additives. As posters above point out...drain the gas if used infrequent
ly. I drain gas tanks on 2 stoke devices I can easily flip over...large 4 s
trokes like mowers or tillers I put a cut off valve in the gas line and run
them until they die from lack of fuel. Purists may point out starving an e
ngine struggling to run is lean/harmful...no problems so far. All start on
first pull with the addition of fresh fuel next time used.
I have learned to never use ethanol gas in single cylinder engines,
especially the small ones. I have a Honda baby tiller 4 cycle engine that
will NOT run with ethanol gas, but put premium ethanol free gas and it will
purr like a kitten. I now use it in my Honda 4 cycle string trimmer and it
starts instantly. I use it in my lawn mower, snow blower and other small
engines and they all seem to start and run better. It will be used in my
chain saw when spring comes -- with the addition of 2 cycle oil.
I have no trouble with E10 in my small engines, including Honda lawn
mower, Crapsman tractor, Generac pressure washer, and 4-cycle
trimmer/blower/brush cutter/edger. Works fine in all. Starts fine,
even in the spring after sitting for six months. I just change the
oil, top off the fuel, and pull.
In addition, I have had the metal in some small engine carburetors all but
dissolve using E10. They form a powdery type of corrosion that plugs up the
small passages and jets, then you might as well throw them away. Expensive.
Well, that was a spirited discussion! I've decided on the Stihl MS170. Th
anks for all of the good recommendations -- and for steering me away from s
ome bad options. Buying this from a local outdoor equipment company at abo
ut 30% off MSRP. It was his last one.
On Sunday, February 23, 2014 1:52:40 PM UTC-6, Gramps' shop wrote:
ic that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too remote f
or the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage of found l
ogs or limbs.
ly has Poulans available. Here's an example: http://milwaukee.craigslist .
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.