| I am in the process of doing a western red cedar project on my house. I
| have been doing a lot of studying and have decided that Cetol 1
| finished with 2 coats of Cetol 23 is the best way for me to go. It can
| be hard to get in the northeast because of some new pollution laws and
| it is damned expensive ($45-$50/gal). I don't have too much to finish
| so I can deal with the price.
| Somwhere in my studies, I read that cedar must be finished and that it
| shouldn't be left to weather. It may have been on the Cedar website,
| I'm not sure (then again it may have been on a paint manufacturer's
| Click on this link http://www.cedar-siding.org/finishing/intro.htm to
| see what they say about preparing and finishing new or existing cedar.
Before you get into Sikkens, or any other product, have a look at this site:
Chapter 13 -- Biodeterioration of Wood (PDF 599 KB)
Chapter 14 -- Wood Preservation (PDF 1.2 MB) and
Chapter 15 -- Finishing of Wood (PDF 2.2 MB)
I put Sikkens on my deck, it looked real good when I finished and it lasted about 2 years. At that point it began to peel and crack so I reapplied the overcoat as per instructions. That lasted about another year or two before it again cracked and peeled.
Given the expense of the product and the short duration I decided to go completely natural. I now have a beautiful silver deck which requires only occasional cleaning.
The upshot of all this is, according to Sikkens, ALL 6 SIDES must be properly covered with their product for it to have any lasting capability. In this I must whole heartedly agree. I also did a well casing cover in cedar and I totally covered the wood (6 sides) with 2 coats of Sikkens before construction and it has lasted some 6 years and still looks great.
If you cannot get all 6 sides, be prepared for regular peeling and cracking.