Nate schreef
Nice!
However, it is Peltogyne with a capital "P" (always) This Peltogyne is a genus, not a family. The family is Leguminosae (Pea family). PvR
PS your experiment suggest that the purple-when-freshly-sawn purpleheart may be a drying defect?
Nate schreef
the well-known one (at room temperature)
simplest explanation is that the heat speeds the kinetics of the reaction that already occurs at room temperature, since this is exactly what occurs with thousands of other reactions. It is actually that there is no reason why the reaction would be different, the null hypothesis is the reaction is the same.
determine the effective temperatures, and times for color changes. The reaction should be accelerated until the temperature reaches the decomposition temperature of the product.
I don't know if it is available, my best guess is no. I can exract it from sawdust, but it is unclear to me how one would get it in to the wood effectively. Perhaps I will take some extract and soak it in to a piece of soft maple to see if I can make "fake" purpleheart.
replying to P van Rijckevorsel, Ryan wrote: The purple is water or alcohol soluble. The wood gets banal when it is freshly cut, or years and years old. If the former, just put it outside for a couple hours. If the latter, just resand it down a touch. If you have a black light, you can use it to see how much potential for change it has remaining...you will know.
Once it's cut and shaped or whatever, it will be dull and will get brighter all by itself. The sun helps quicken it, but at a cost. Think about, say, a piece of white maple soaked in ooze from a glow stick, and you are trying to make it glow at night for as long as possible. Purpleheart works the same way. You
*can* charge it in the sunlight when it is freshly cut or resanded. You *can* heat it gently with a torch or oven or heat gun or lighter. You can quickly wipe the piece with alcohol or acetone or dunk it in water to pull out the water soluble dye. You can even use pressure to bring it out, but all of those things are tantamount to wringing the good stuff out to the surface, so that it can loose it's glow faster. The maple soaked in glow stick ooze will shine the best and longest if you keep it dry, cool, and away from UV. It will shine the brightest and then burn out if you heat it or blast it with uv. Same reaction.And don't use acid or base unless you wanna make it bone yellow or green/black on the other end of the spectrum.
Speaking of "years and years old", did you happen to notice the date of the posts in this thread?
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