Building workbench...how to level legs?

[mac davis]

Being lazy, and starting with a bench that I built for a level floor, I used the following method: (YMMV)

Drill 2 3/8" or larger holes in each "down hill" leg...

Mark matching holes in short pieces of scrap that matches leg.. (in my case, 2 x

6")

Rout adjustment slots in the pieces of scrap, usually 1 1/2" or so will do it...

Lift low end with floor jack until level...

Bolt scrap on legs with carriage bolts...

Lower bench and check level..

After adding these, I didn't like the look of the scrap blocks, (I put them on the outside of the leg, to avoid a cross beam), I added a 2 x 4" across the 2 scrap blocks for a foot rest...

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

[BillyBob]

I installed them and they worked like a champ. I am using in a garage on bare concrete. I move the bench around on a wheeled carriage frequently so i have a need to re-adjust the feet often. I did not detect in slippage on the concrete floor. I found the ability to use screw adjustment as opposed to shims to be superior and more easy to get right quickly. Prior to this, I was using wood shim wedges under the legs. The screw adjustment is much more precise and allows me to get it perfect which adds to the stability.

Bob

[Badger]

I'd go for Footmaster leveling foot castors, a combined castor and screw down/jacking foot, put a set on a 6'x6'x16' steel frame we needed to be able to move at work, it carries a 1000lb plus weight split furnace, no problems with movement or stability.

Niel.

[Bruce]

On Mon, 8 Aug 2005 20:04:04 -0600, BillyBob wrote (in article ):

I read about using lag screws the same way (no nut needed)

-Bruce

[bridger]

that's how I have my big bench set up. the loegs are 4x6, with 1/2" lags in from the botom, prolly close to a foot of thread engaging wood. it lets me "tune" the height and level as things around it shift.

[Prometheus]

Funny thing is, I went to the store to get levelers, but all they had were skimpy ones, so I went with that. Works nice, and I'm sure you'll be making more tables, benches, etc. at some point, so I'm sure you can try it out some other time!

[Prometheus]

I did, but they didn't have any T-nuts that size, and I thought it'd be interesting to make a hex-shaped mortise for a change anyhow. IIRC, to lay it out I ended up threading the nut partially on the bolt, then sliding in and just tracing around it. Only took a couple of minutes per leg- much easier and less fussy than tradtional M&T.

[Prometheus]

You could also round the edges of the bolt on a belt sander or grinder. Unless you've got a really spiffy floor on your shop, it probably doesn't need all that much babying.

[Jay Pique]

Have you got a drill press? If so, set your depth adjustment and drill a hole half way through the center of a small piece of square scrap. Repeat four times (with identical thickness scrap). Level the bench with the lag bolts, then slip the scrap over each head so you don't gouge the floor. You could even bevel the edges so they'd slide a little.

JP

[BillyBob]

Nice product. I could only find the Japanese home web site. Where do you buy these in the Western hemisphere?

Bob

[Art Greenberg]

I found them at

prepared for sticker shock.

[Badger]

RS components in the UK:

will get you a map, they do world wide shipping...

Niel.

[Badger]

About the same as we paid allowing for conversion to £ and taxes...